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‘Adaptogen’ has been a buzzword in beauty and skincare for a while now, but there’s a reason this category of plant-derived ingredients may feel a little extra buzzy right now: They’re all about addressing stress. Since we’re all dealing with that a bit more than usual at the moment, people are looking for all the help they can get. We’re breaking down the benefits of adaptogens in skincare with the help of a few skin experts.

## **The Benefits of Adaptogens in Skincare**

![Topical Adaptogens Skincare Benefits Infographic](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/K3Tv1FT0Aun4tsmDjItzZ/802a3ddf7d0b0e3cd470d6ab959a284a/Topical-Adaptogens-Skincare-Benefits-Infographic.png)

Said to thwart signs of aging, soothe irritation, and make your skin glow, the idea is that adaptogens help your body, well, adapt to all the stressors life throws at you (think: pollution, oxidation, UV rays, etc.), so it can better fend them off.  

The list of adaptogens is long, and their use dates back centuries in Chinese and Aryuvedic medicine. A few you might recognize:

- Ashwagandha
- Elderberry
- Ginseng
- Licorice root
- Neem
- Moringa
- Reishi mushrooms

While adaptogens are seemingly everywhere in skincare formulas these days, you might be surprised to know that they’re not quite considered a slam-dunk in the dermatology world yet. Although there has been [some research to support](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3991026/) their positive impacts on the nervous system, many feel more studies are needed before drawing any big conclusions. 

That doesn’t mean, however, that they don’t have fans among complexion gurus who see these ingredients as potent helpers that soothe as they treat. [Howard Murad, MD](https://drhowardmurad.com/), has used an adapogents in his [eponymous skincare line](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.murad.com%2F). Calling them “great ingredients” for skincare formulations, the dermatologist says adaptogens “reinforce and support the skin’s resistance against stressors that can accelerate visible signs of aging.” The one he’s leaned on for his own formulations? Holy basil, which, he says, “creates a soothing buffer that helps to accelerate skin cell recovery.”

New York City-based board certified dermatologist [Dendy Engleman, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/dendy-engelman-md-312), explains many in the industry find them exciting because they could help fend off damage from environmental aggressors — like UVA and UVB rays — before it happens. “Adaptogens interact with our hormones on a cellular level, as opposed to addressing the symptoms,” she says. “We see that [they] can lower our body’s stress response by interfering with released compounds as they are happening and prevent them from signaling overproduction, which can have wonderful implications for acne, wounds, hydration, and more.” 

Who might see the most benefit? Anyone with compromised skin (read: dry, sensitive, redness, uneven texture), Dr. Engelman shares. And, luckily for those who want to give them a go, adaptogens are fairly easy to find in moisturizers, serums, and masks these days. One she says to keep an eye on is the hemp derivative [cannabidiol (CBD)](https://aedit.com/aedition/cannabidiol-cbd-in-skincare-products-face-body), which is gaining popularity as research rolls out showing what it can do for [acne](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4151231/) and skin conditions like [eczema](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/30993303/). 

Below, a selection of adaptogen-infused skincare to get you started:

### **The Glowifier:** Moon Juice Acid Potion
![AEDIT-MoonJuice](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/1dOBrOkq5dfGbIc2NL8Abm/aa7fb59a2efd4d31d2eea94600fc1353/AEDIT-MoonJuice.png)
If there’s ever a time to add an astringent to your skincare routine, it’s winter when dullness starts to pop up. This gentle resurfacer helps encourage cell turnover with five acids, then soothes and hydrates with the magic of adaptogenic reishi mushrooms. $42, [sephora.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fproduct%2Fbeauty-shroom-exfoliating-acid-potion-P435800)  

### **The Masne-Tackler:** Glo Skin Anti-Stress CBD Drops
![AEDIT-Anti-Stress-CBD](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/4biPTRLd43YeDkVA6iQNsk/824dcb51af082c44ba18fda58620c68b/AEDIT-Anti-Stress-CBD.png)
A must in the era of COVID-19 face masks, this serum fends off irritation with an adaptogenic trio of full-spectrum CBD, ashwagandha, and reishi mushroom. Apply directly to the skin or mix with your favorite moisturizer. $125, [bluemercury.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fbluemercury.com%2Fproducts%2Fglo-skin-beauty-anti-stress-cbd-drops)

### **The Prep Step:** Guerlain Abeille Royale Fortifying Lotion
![AEDIT-AbeilleRoyal](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/5iSOzE2xzY60lKMaFNgFHn/528661427271c74241840cc531c53ba4/AEDIT-AbeilleRoyal.png)
This lotion delivers proteins and amino acids thanks to the adaptogen royal jelly, which is sustainably harvested from bees on the island of Ouessant off the coast of Brittany, France. Swipe on after cleansing and before serums to help give your complexion an air of calm, cool, collectness worthy of a queen — bee or human. $75, [sephora.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fproduct%2Fguerlain-abeille-royale-anti-aging-fortifying-lotion-toner-P461451) 

### **The Flexible Booster:** DERMAdoctor Urban Veil Anti-Stress Adaptogen Powder
![AEDIT-Powder](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/5ir2KIT0u1LAz7J1oBSP9l/9d1824473e45fd53d41d611c9bc65c7e/AEDIT-Powder.png)
This powder scores points for containing multiple adaptogens (cordyceps mushrooms, echinacea, and elderberry) and being so versatile. Just sprinkle it to your moisturizer, serum, or foundation as you please to address sensitivity and redness. $75, [skinstore.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.skinstore.com%2Fdermadoctor-urban-veil-anti-stress-adaptogen-powder-10g%2F12716292.html)

### **The Bi-Phase Beautifier:** Murad Replenish Peel
![AEDIT-Murad](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/7qJVXPuLQmCfJWqZJki9jH/e7f7d147e778cdf6ae2afb380eed8d86/AEDIT-Murad.png)
This two-step treatment sloughs away dead skin cells with gentle acids, then strengthens the skin’s surface with antioxidants and adaptogenic holy basil. In the brand’s clinical trials, it was found to accelerate cell turnover by 33 percent in seven days. $65, [murad.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.murad.com%2Fproduct%2Freplenishing-multi-acid-peel%2F) 

### **The Eye Brightener:** Mutha Up All Night Eye Cream 
![AEDIT-Up-All-Night](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/2XQnpNkVRb05yJ4gXXb1I4/f52aa04361c4ebb85ddd8a64c92b9d48/AEDIT-Up-All-Night.png)
The herbal red seaweed, holy basil, centella asiatica, and licorice root in this eye cream send free radical damage packing. Then vitamin C, coffee extract, and pearl powder help to brighten for an instant awakening effect. $90, [mutha.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fmutha.com%2Fproducts%2Fup-all-night-eye-cream) 

### **The Instant Soother:** Biophile Bio-shroom Rejuvenating Serum
![AEDIT-Biophile](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/78zM4XShKrRfBlgsiSGW6d/91733494987ba7b6e3739ea8a16bb8cc/AEDIT-Biophile.png)
This protective skin potion uses the power of three adaptogenic mushrooms and niacinamide to calm inflammation, while vitamin C goes to work on fine lines and wrinkles. $148, [thedetoxmarket.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.thedetoxmarket.com%2Fproducts%2Fbio-shroom-rejuvenating-serum)  

### **The Sleep Aid:** Terraform Concentrated Overnight Repair Mask 
![AEDIT-Terraform](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/6m0U9Lal6EVuMPwjSt5lxt/0d931aa37f5b07754168ff17631d29d8/AEDIT-Terraform.png)
With a medley of adaptogens — including CBD, reishi mushroom, and ashwagandha — as well as antioxidants galore, this restorative nighttime mask will have you looking more well-rested by morning. $95, [terraformbrands.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fterraformbrands.com%2Fterra-form-concentrated-overnight-repair-mask-500mg-full-spectrum-hemp-extract%2F) 

### **The Acne-Fighter:** MMSkincare Balance Serum 
![AEDIT-Serum](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/573kOQWwIvoLya3JO73Zcm/ec4b710ec092f94426e330240a642f9f/AEDIT-Serum.png)
With Canadian willow herb and prebiotics, this serum helps tackle break-outs, balance combination skin, and fight redness all at the same time. $85, [mmskincare.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fmmskincare.com%2Fproducts%2Fmmbalance-serum)  

*All products featured are independently selected by our editors, however, AEDIT may receive a commission on items purchased through our links.*

Beauty

A look into those stress-busting, plant-based wonder ingredients. 

Benefits Of Adaptogens In Skincare

What Do Adaptogens Really Do For The Skin?

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*Feel like you need a dictionary every time you look at the ingredient list of a beauty product? Still unsure of the difference between retinol and retinoids? What about the unique benefits of vitamins B, C, and E? Are alpha and beta hydroxy acids the same thing? The skincare aisle can be overwhelming, but you don’t need a PhD in cosmetic chemistry to navigate it. With expert help, The AEDITION is demystifying and simplifying the beauty industry — [one label at a time](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/read-the-label).*

Few ingredients in skincare have become as synonymous with their benefits as collagen. Promising a younger complexion and reduced signs of aging, the word has been plastered on countless beauty products promising to ‘boost’ its powers. From skincare to haircare to supplements and even aesthetic treatments, collagen has become integrated into just about everything. 

This naturally produced protein is an integral part of our skin’s structure, and we are born with an ever-dwindling reserve of it. In theory, replenishing collagen is important, but can collagen-powered products truly deliver such results? The AEDITION spoke with several experts to investigate the benefits of this powerhouse ingredient, how it works, and how to add it into your routine.

## **What Is Collagen?** 

![Topical Collagen Skincare Benefits Infographic](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/hLOCcFHZGN0wxndCUcBeY/fe42dd143fb1a4b01dcbe7b3100b6afb/Topical-Collagen-Skincare-Benefits-Infographic.png)

A fibrous protein that is naturally occurring in the body, collagen is a structural behemoth that helps the skin have a plump, youthful, hydrated appearance. There are at least 16 types of collagen. Type I is the most abundant, making up 90 percent of the collagen in the body. It is, however, so precious because our internal speed of production slows down with time. “Collagen is what gives our skin structure,” explains Sheila Farhang, MD, a board certified dermatologist and founder of [Avant Dermatology & Aesthetics](https://www.avantdermatology.com/). “We start losing approximately 1 percent of our collagen each year starting at the age of 20 and loss of collagen and elasticity is what causes sagging less plump skin.” 

### **How Does Collagen Work?**
Collagen is a key component of the elasticity and firmness of the skin but also the strength of joints, hair, and nails – let’s just say, it does a lot of heavy lifting. “Natural collagen breakdown can begin as early as your twenties,” says Tammy Yaiser, head formulator and vice president of product development at [Algenist](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.algenist.com%2F). “Over time, the pace of collagen depletion accelerates, resulting in visible wrinkles and a loss of firmness and elasticity.” 

Collagen production naturally decreases with age, but external factors can speed up the process. “Certain extenuating factors – including stress, pollution, and genetics – may contribute to breakdown at an increased pace,” Yaiser notes. “At the same time, the rate at which we naturally produce collagen decelerates.” This combination can have a direct effect on the quality and aesthetic of the skin. “The appearance of accelerated aging caused by dryness, roughness, tightness, oxidative, and daily stress helps contribute to thin, fragile skin,” she explains. “They may contribute to the loss of storage of skin-plumping collagen and the slowing of natural new production leading to decreased elasticity. When collagen and elastin break down, skin loses firmness and radiance, and fine lines and wrinkles appear more visible.” 

Despite the laundry list of stressors that can speed up the degradation of collagen, there are ways to counteract it. “Collagen loss is accelerated with UV exposure, [smoking](https://aedit.com/aedition/impact-of-cigarette-smoking-vaping-on-skin-hair-teeth-health), and pollution,” Dr. Sheila says. But a healthy lifestyle can help. 

### **What Are the Benefits of Collagen?**
The benefits of collagen go beyond the skin. “In addition to improvements in the visible appearance of your skin, healthy collagen levels provide additional whole-body benefits,” Yaiser shares. Because it is such a prevalent protein within the body, it’s decrease has impacts on overall health, too. “Internally, connective tissue is all over our body,” explains Tatiana Boncompagni, co-founder and CEO of [Eat Sunny](https://eatsunny.com/). “So, it’s not just the skin. It helps our joints, which is important as we age.” 

## **Finding the Right Collagen Product**
The beauty of collagen in skincare is that it is gentle enough to be added to any routine and works alongside other ingredients. “We even layer it with [retinol](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-vitamin-a-retinol-retinoids-in-skincare), [peptides](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-topical-peptides-in-skincare), and other actives,” Yaiser says. “Adding a topical collagen treatment can help improve skin’s plumpness, resiliency, smoothness, elasticity, bounce, and more.” From serums to creams, the ingredient is often found in a vitamin-powered cocktail of actives.

In order to find a product that can deliver results, our experts have a few tips:

1. **Check the Label**: “Clinical data is great, but, as a former beauty editor, I know that many companies simply pay research labs to provide the results they want,” Boncompagni explains. Her advice? “Look for online reviews. Do your homework. Read the label. Read reviews.” Yaiser adds that language can be murky. “We advise consumers to beware of ‘collagen promoters,’ which are not real collagen but rather partial collagen molecules marketed as ‘Pro-Collagen,’” she says. 
2. **Seek Alternatives**: Luckily for vegans, this is one ingredient that has a non-animal derived counterpart. “Although there are many types of collagen and sources, all forms and subsequent hydrolysates contain three characteristic amino acids – glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline,” Yaiser explains. “Vegan collagen is a plant-based source chemically equivalent to animal-derived sources of collagen.” 
3. **Do Your Research**: Yaiser notes that because vegan collagen is so popular and such a sought-after ingredient, impostors abound. “There are also many other ingredients that claim to be plant collagen, botanical collagen, marine collagen, or biomimetic collagen that are generally peptides or botanical extracts without collagen even in the INCI list,” she warns. Some common examples: Oryza Sativa (Rice) Extract, Glycine Max (Soybean) Seed Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root Extract, and Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract.

## **How To Add Collagen Into Your Routine** 
At this point, you’ve probably gleaned that there are a lot of ways to use collagen. To simplify the process, here are the basics: 

- **When**: Most products “can be used daily in the morning and evening routine to unlock the benefits of collagen and help address visible signs of aging on the skin,” Yaiser says. Depending on [your skincare regimen](https://aedit.com/aedition/best-skincare-routine-products-ingredients-for-30s), you may be interested in a cream or serum (we like the [Algenist Collagen Dreams Kit](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.algenist.com%2Fproducts%2Fcollagen-dreams-kit) to tackle multiple areas at once). Know that it can be added in whatever form suits you best.   
- **How**: “As far as topicals, it is always helpful to combine it with other vitamins, such as [vitamin C](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-topical-vitamin-c-in-skincare), which boosts collagen production, or [vitamin B3 complex](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-topical-niacinamide-vitamin-b3-in-skincare), which increases skin tone, texture, and skin barrier,” Dr. Sheila adds. Her pick? The [Olay Body Firming Body Wash With Vitamin B3 and Collagen](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.walmart.com%2Fip%2FOlay-Firming-Body-Wash-for-Women-with-Collagen-17-9-fl-oz%2F955868105). 
- **Who**: Dr. Sheila believes this ingredient is one that women can wait to start using. “I believe implementing a good skincare regimen, which includes [sunscreen](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-apply-sunscreen-and-not-miss-a-spot), antioxidants, and retinoid, is key starting at the age of 20,” she says. “Collagen-boosting ingredients may be more beneficial starting in the thirties.”  
- **Not For**: While it is gentle enough for most to use, those with chronic skin conditions should consult with their dermatologist first. Those with sensitive skin conditions “should be more concerned about [fragranced products](https://aedit.com/aedition/fragrance-free-beauty-skincare-for-sensitive-skin) or certain preservatives and not the collagen itself,” Dr. Sheila notes. 

## **Additional Collagen Sources** 
Collagen isn’t just for skincare. Because we can’t get enough, here’s how else you can add it to your overall health and wellness regimen.  

### **Aesthetic Treatments** 
Unlike other proteins in the body, collagen may be induced via a cosmetic procedure,” Dr. Sheila explains. [Sculptra®](https://aedit.com/aedition/everything-you-need-to-know-about-dermal-fillers), for example, is a bio-stimulatory filler that has been cited as a non-invasive treatment for growing collagen. “[PDO threads](https://aedit.com/procedure/pdo-thread-lift) are also a minimally invasive way to get a lift, and the actual thread is bio-stimulatory helping produce collagen,” she adds. [Microneedling](https://aedit.com/procedure/microneedling) is another popular and effective way of signaling to the body to speed up collagen production.

### **Supplements**
“Collagen supplements contain collagen peptides or hydrolyzed collagen that is supposed to be easily absorbed by the gut because it is a smaller molecule,” Boncompagni explains. “The idea is that these peptides get absorbed by the gut into the bloodstream, which then delivers them to the fibroblasts in the skin, joints, or any connective tissue in the body.” The collagen peptides provide the fibroblasts with the amino acids they need to create collagen.

Dr. Sheila adds that these supplements can be added to a post-procedure recovery regimen. “After cosmetic procedures, including skin tightening devices such as the Morpheus8 or Sculptra® injections, I do recommend supplementing with collagen powder to boost collagen production and wound healing,” she says. Such supplements are particularly beneficial for older patients. “I usually don’t recommend collagen supplements unless my patient is over 40, as I think that is when it is more useful and noticeable,” she notes. “The collagen supplement has to have a USP seal, and I also usually recommend collagen supplements [after cosmetic procedures](https://aedit.com/aedition/meal-plans-diet-before-after-cosmetic-surgery).”

### **Hair Care** 
We’ve mentioned how collagen’s talents aren’t just for the skin, and hair can benefit greatly. When it comes to hair, “Collagen strengthens the protein bond of the hair,” explains Holly Dear, a Dallas-based hairstylist and founder of [Dear Clark](https://dearclark.com/). “The goal is to increase the antigen-growing phase through scalp health with other ingredients such as aloe.” When looking for a collagen hair care product, Dear explains that follicle fitness is key. While animal-derived collagen is preferred, vegan alternatives are also adequate. Supplements can also play a role in hair health. “The best benefit of collagen is when it is ingested first then applied topically,” she says.

## **The Takeaway**
Collagen is a building block of healthy skin and keeps you looking youthful, plump, and hydrated. But, when adding it to your routine, quality is key. Since collagen production naturally decreases with age, it’s a good idea to start implementing it into your routine in your thirties through a topical product, supplement, or cosmetic treatment. Despite its many benefits, it’s important to remember that there is no silver bullet in skincare. “Skincare isn’t one-size-fits-all, so it’s best to check with a dermatologist if you have — especially sensitized skin,” Yaiser says.

*All products featured are independently selected by our editors, however, AEDIT may receive a commission on items purchased through our links.*

Can collagen address dull, sagging, and wrinkled skin to give it a plumper, more youthful appearance? The experts break it down.

Guide To Collagen In Skincare, Supplements, Aesthetic Medicine

Read The Label: All Of Your Collagen Questions Answered

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Vitiligo is a chronic skin condition characterized by hypopigmented white patches created as melanocytes (the skin’s melanin pigment producing cells) die off. The patches tend to lose color slowly over time, sometimes appearing pink due to underlying blood vessels. The depigmentation is relatively harmless, though it does make the skin more susceptible to sunburn. Vitiligo may be present all over the body or concentrated in specific areas.

According to the National Institutes of Health (NIH), vitiligo is [estimated to affect](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5038943/) between 0.2 and 1.8 percent of people worldwide. “Men and women are equally affected, although women are more likely to seek medical care,” says [Samer Jaber, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/samer-jaber-md-3882), a board certified dermatologist and founder of Washington Square Dermatology in New York City. While the onset can occur at any age, 70 percent of vitiligo patients develop it before the age of 30.

Here, we break down everything you need to know about living with and treating vitiligo. 

## **Types of Vitiligo**
Vitiligo takes several forms that are generally categorized as local or generalized and segmental or non-segmental. Because vitiligo is often progressive, lesser forms can morph into a more widespread pattern covering more areas of the body. Here’s a breakdown:

### **Local Vitiligo**
Local vitiligo refers to hypopigmentation isolated to one area of the body. From there, it can be broken down into focal or segmental:

- **Focal**: A few spots concentrated in a single area. Typical types of focal vitiligo include mucosal (affecting only the lips and genitals) and lip-tip (lips, genitals, and fingertips).
- **Segmental**: The rarest form, with affected areas focused on one side of the body and nowhere else.

### **Generalized Vitiligo**
The most common type, generalized vitiligo is characterized by many patches all over the body that are often symmetrical (i.e. like a mirror image). Depending on the body parts affected, it can be classified as:

- **Acrofacial**: Affects the face, hands, and feet
- **Vulgaris**: Patches on many parts of the body in a roughly symmetrical fashion
- **Universal**: Vitiligo covering most of the body

## **Causes of Vitiligo**
Though no one knows for sure, many scientists believe that vitiligo is an autoimmune disorder that attacks the pigment producing cells (a.k.a. melanocytes) in skin. Exactly why this happens, however, remains unclear. “Vitiligo does not have one cause, as it is a multifactorial disorder,” Dr. Jaber notes. Genetics likely play a role, and research also shows some correlation between certain other health conditions (like hypothyroidism and pernicious anemia) and developing the condition.

Known risk factors include:

1. **Genetics**: About 30 percent of people with vitiligo have a family history of either the disorder or premature hair graying (which is also a loss of pigment).
2. **Autoimmune Conditions**: You are more likely to get vitiligo if you (or a family member) have another autoimmune disease like [psoriasis](https://aedit.com/aedition/what-its-like-to-live-with-and-treat-psoriasis), rheumatoid arthritis, and thyroid disease.

There is no known cure for vitiligo, and its path is unpredictable. Doctors generally consider vitiligo to be a lifelong condition that often — but not always — progresses. Some people with vitiligo experience hearing loss (though many don’t realize it) because the inner ear also contains melanocytes. Patients sometimes speak of the pale areas of skin waxing and waning, speculating that periods of stress might bring it on, whereas certain protocols may improve the skin’s appearance.

### **Diagnosing Vitiligo**
To determine if a patient has vitiligo, doctors perform a combination of physical exam, patient interview, and a Wood’s lamp test. American physicist Robert Wood developed this method of evaluating skin exposed to long-wave UV light (the same ‘blacklight’ of 1980s roller rink fame). Healthy skin appears as a bluish color under the Wood’s light, while patches of skin devoid of pigment cells glow white. 

It should be noted that those white areas are not always vitiligo. Glowing spots might instead indicate idiopathic guttate hypomelanosis (IGH) — the tiny white sun damage spots often found on the arms and décolleté — so it’s important to get a dermatologist’s opinion. The Wood’s light test is useful in ruling out other possible causes of hypopigmented skin patches, including those caused by other inflammatory conditions, congenital abnormalities, infections, and an extremely rare form of lymphoma (which can be ruled out with a biopsy). 

### **Vitiligo Triggers**
There are several factors that are known to bring on vitiligo symptoms that include:

- **Stress**: *Mad Men* actor Jon Hamm famously stated that he discovered his vitiligo — a small white spot on his neck — after wrapping the show’s pilot episode. He told reporter Lee Thomas in 2016 that it was brought on by stress. 
- **Skin Damage**: Severe sunburn or cuts can trigger the appearance of autoimmune symptoms, including [psoriasis plaques](https://aedit.com/aedition/what-its-like-to-live-with-and-treat-psoriasis) and vitiligo patches. This process is known as the [Koebner Phenomenon](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK553108/#).
- **Chemical Exposure**: Exposure to products containing phenol (a.k.a. phenic or carbolic acid) may provoke vitiligo. While you probably already avoid it’s most well-known incarnation, BPA, phenols are also found in products like antiseptic spray, mouthwash, deodorant, sunscreen, herbicides, fungicides, and more.

This is not an exhaustive list and symptoms look different depending on the patient. Consulting with your dermatologist can help shed light on what may be exacerbating the condition for you.

## **How to Treat Vitiligo**
Now that we’ve covered the causes and triggers of vitiligo, it’s important to understand treatment options. “The most common treatments for vitiligo are topical steroids and topical calcineurin inhibitors,” Dr. Jaber explains, noting they are particularly helpful for mild cases. 

### **Topical Medications**
- **Calcineurin Inhibitors**: This class of topical drugs act on the immune system to reduce skin inflammation. One medication, tacrolimus, is derived from a soil fungus found only in Japan. FDA-approved to treat [eczema](https://aedit.com/aedition/best-skincare-products-to-treat-eczema-flare-ups-in-the-winter), it is highly effective in some vitiligo patients (particularly for treating the face) without the side effects of steroids.
- **Corticosteroids**: These creams are FDA-approved to reduce skin inflammation. According to *JAMA Dermatology*, topical corticosteroids are [most effective](https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamadermatology/fullarticle/479293#) on “small, newly depigmented areas.” Prolonged use can result in skin thinning and stretch marks.
- **Bleaching Agents**: Usually considered a last resort, bleaching chemicals like monobenzone can be used by patients whose vitiligo affects more than half their body or face. Rather than attempting to prevent depigmentation, the treatment lightens the surrounding pigmented skin.

When vitiligo is more widespread, Dr. Jaber says narrowband UVB phototherapy and the excimer laser can both be effective.

### **UV Light Therapy**
- **Psoralen UV-A (PUVA)**: The treatment has historically been recommended to treat extensive vitiligo vulgaris. Patients take psoralen (either orally or topically), a drug which increases sensitivity to UV-A rays, before being exposed to long-wave UV-A light. It’s effective about 50 percent of the time, though approximately 75 percent of patients relapse within two years. Side effects range from nausea to increased skin cancer risk.
- **Narrowband UVB (nbUVB)**: This newer light therapy [shows promise](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6536079/) as a safer, more effective alternative to PUVA. Not only are there fewer side effects, but there is also a better color match between affected and non-affected areas.
- **Excimer Laser**: Similar to nbUVB, the laser uses just one wavelength and can be very effective on smaller areas of vitiligo. It’s often used in conjunction with nbUVB to address spots that remain after more widespread treatment.

### **Surgery**
There are a variety of skin grafting modalities available to treat vitiligo, depending on the part of the body and the goals of the patient. It does not, however, have a high success rate because the immune cells often attack the newly transplanted melanocytes. In order for surgery to be effective, a patient’s vitiligo must be stable (read: not continuing to progress) for one or two years. Even then, it only works about half the time and the patches could return if the vitiligo becomes active again. [Research shows](https://www.umassmed.edu/vitiligo/blog/blog-posts1/2015/12/surgical-treatment-and-maybe-even-a-cure-for-vitiligo/) patients with segmental vitiligo (where the affected skin is limited to one side of the body) often see the best results. 

### **Skincare**
Medical treatment for vitiligo is not required, and, as Dr. Jaber notes, it is a difficult condition to treat successfully. There are, however, some advancements that show promise. ”Fortunately, there are some newer immune-based medications on the horizon, which are currently being studied in clinical trials,” he says. In the meantime, dermatologists suggest [vigilant sun protection](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-apply-sunscreen-and-not-miss-a-spot) and skincare for all vitiligo patients to protect the melanin-deprived skin patches.

## **The Psychology of Vitiligo**
Vitiligo isn’t life-threatening or physically harmful (though some patients report minor itching and discomfort), but it can impact a patient’s social and emotional wellbeing. “The psychosocial effects of vitiligo are well studied,” Dr. Jaber says. “Unfortunately, those with vitiligo have a higher risk of depression and anxiety, resulting in low self-esteem and social isolation.”

Increased understanding of the condition has, however, helped to normalize it. While Michael Jackson famously struggled to accept his vitiligo, public figures today are increasingly comfortable not only discussing but flaunting their skin. Model [Winnie Harlow](https://www.instagram.com/winnieharlow/?hl=en) (*above*), for example, has covered magazines like *Vogue*, *Elle*, and *Glamour* and boasts some 8.4 million Instagram followers. “Winnie Harlow is an amazing role model for those with vitiligo,” Dr. Jaber says. “Especially for a child or a teenager, seeing someone with a condition that you have achieve such success is truly a game changer.” 

Ultimately, it’s all about education. “By increasing awareness of what vitiligo is, she has increased acceptance of the condition, decreasing the stigma associated with it,” he concludes.

Wellness

Vitiligo is a chronic skin condition that causes areas of skin to lose color. Here, we break down what you need to know about living with and treating it.

Vitiligo: Types, Causes, Triggers, Treatments

Everything You Need To Know About Vitiligo

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*Feel like you need a dictionary every time you look at the ingredient list of a beauty product? Still unsure of the difference between retinol and retinoids? What about the unique benefits of vitamins B, C, and E? Are alpha and beta hydroxy acids the same thing? The skincare aisle can be overwhelming, but you don’t need a PhD in cosmetic chemistry to navigate it. With expert help, The AEDITION is demystifying and simplifying the beauty industry — [one label at a time](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/read-the-label).*

Vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide and nicotinamide, is a skincare stalwart thanks to its plethora of skin-boosting benefits. Not only does it play well with other active ingredients, but it is often recommended to address everything from acne to wrinkles for just about any skin type. So, how does niacinamide work, and what’s the best way to incorporate it into your skincare routine? The AEDITION asks the experts. 

## **What Is Niacinamide?**
Niacinamide is derived from vitamin B3 and is a water-soluble vitamin that is not naturally produced by the body. Instead, it has to be consumed orally or applied topically. While vitamin B3 is often found in foods like fish, grains, avocado, mushrooms, and green peas, a diet rich in the vitamin may not provide the same benefits as a topical product. 

Because the body does not produce niacin itself, the multitasker is best supplemented through both [a proper diet](https://aedit.com/aedition/best-diet-for-healthy-beautiful-skin) *and* [skincare](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/skincare). “[It is] used in skincare for its soothing, brightening, and skin-strengthening benefits,” says [Joshua Zeichner, MD](http://www.zeichnerdermatology.com/), a board certified dermatologist in New York City. “It is the ultimate chameleon of skincare, as it can be a benefit for all skin types and almost all skin needs.” 

## **The Benefits of Niacinamide in Skincare**

![Niacinamide Vitamin B3 Skincare Benefits Infographic](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/6BfT1tU8vfs1Xt4FA88B2s/14face1158f53ece9feb424580d94845/Niacinamide-Vitamin-B3-Skincare-Benefits-Infogrpahic.png)

While [many skincare ingredients](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/read-the-label) are known for multitasking, niacinamide might take the cake. It is known to:

- Control oil production 
- Improve barrier function
- Boost collagen production
- Thwart abnormal pigmentation  

“It's known to help with oil control, increase ceramide synthesis for skin barrier reinforcement, have anti-inflammatory properties, aid with [acne](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-treat-hormonal-acne-body-acne-cystic-acne-whiteheads-blackheads), fade [hyperpigmentation](https://aedit.com/aedition/what-its-like-to-treat-hyperpigmentation-with-skincare-cosmetic-treatments), and boost collagen production to fill in wrinkles,” explains Tyler Gaul, founder of [Protocol](https://protocol-lab.com/). Because it is often delivered in low concentrations, it is gentle enough for sensitive skin (more on that later!) but potent enough to address a host of skincare woes. 

## **The Best Candidates for Niacinamide**
Often ranking high on ‘must-try’ lists alongside mainstays like topical [vitamin A](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-vitamin-a-retinol-retinoids-in-skincare) (read: retinol and retinoids) and [vitamin C](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-topical-vitamin-c-in-skincare), niacinamide has an it-factor the others don’t: a slim chance of irritation. So, whether you’re currently dealing with breakouts in your teenage years or grew up using a Walkman and are starting to notice a few lines here and there, incorporating a product with niacinamide into your regimen can go a long way toward healthier skin.   

## **How to Add Niacinamide to Your Routine**
As we further dive into the pros and cons of an array of skincare ingredients, it’s easy to feel spoilt for choice — especially when many overlap in benefits. This is why understanding what the combinations can work wonders (or, on the contrary, cause irritation) is so important. “Niacinamide plays well with most actives,” explain Susan Yara and Ben Bennett, the founders of [Naturium](https://naturium.com/). “It’s great paired with [acids](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-topical-alpha-hydroxy-acids-in-skincare), retinol, and vitamin C.” 

The Naturium line is full of potent pairings, like the dynamic duo of niacinamide and zinc in the [Niacinamide Serum 12% Plus Zinc 2%](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fnaturium.com%2Fcollections%2Fbest-sellers%2Fproducts%2Fniacinamide-serum-12-plus-zinc-2). “We paired our niacinamide with Zinc PCA, a derivative of the natural moisturizing factor in the skin, to further reduce skin shine while increasing skin’s moisture content,” Yara and Bennett share. “Zinc PCA also helps stabilize your skin’s natural acid mantle thus balancing your skin’s pH.”

Whether in a serum (we’re fans of the [StriVectin Super-C Retinol Brighten & Correct Vitamin C Serum](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.strivectin.com%2Fsuper-c-serum)), a cream (the [Protocol Hyaluronic Acid & Niacinamide Hydration Cream](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fprotocol-lab.com%2Fcollections%2Fskincare-renewing-line%2Fproducts%2Fhyaluronic-acid-niacinamide-hydration-cream) is a lifesaver in the colder months), or a cleanser (try the [Naturium Niacinamide Cleansing Gelée 3%](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fnaturium.com%2Fproducts%2Fniacinamide-cleansing-gelee-3)), the ingredients comes in a variety of forms making it easy to incorporate in the morning, evening, or both. Consider your [skin type](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-fitzpatrick-skin-types) and factor in your skin's needs when choosing the niacin-powered product for you. 

## **Finding the Right Niacinamide Product**
The most significant factor to consider when looking for a niacinamide-powered product is the concentration. “If a company doesn't disclose the concentration of their active ingredients, it's usually because there isn't a significant amount included,” Gaul explains. “That said, over five or six percent does not show increased therapeutic benefit and can lead to increased occurrence of adverse effects (though those are very few).”

If you’re concerned about large pores and more advanced signs of aging, a higher concentration may be beneficial — but users should be aware of the so-called ‘niacin flush.’ “Not all niacinamide is created equal and can often result in skin flushing,” Yara and Bennett explain. The redness, often appearing as flushing or blushing, is harmless, and tolerance can be developed over time. If it persists, reach for a lower dosage or check the brand's credentials for further information. “At Naturium, we formulate with high quality, non-flushing niacinamide,” they note. 

## **The Takeaway**
While no one skincare ingredient [can do it all](https://aedit.com/aedition/aesthetic-skin-aging-concerns-skincare-cannot-treat), niacinamide comes close for those who wish to improve skin tone and texture. If you’re looking to add something to your arsenal that complements what you’re already using while also battling acne, pigmentation, and wrinkles (to name a few), a niacin-infused product might fit the bill. 

*All products featured are independently selected by our editors, however, AEDIT may receive a commission on items purchased through our links.*

Vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide, is a dynamo ingredient that can tackle acne, pigmentation, and wrinkles. Here’s what the experts have to say about this jack of all trades.

Guide To Topical Niacinamide, Vitamin B3 In Skincare

Read The Label: All Of Your Niacinamide Questions Answered

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We all know that the [quality of sleep](https://aedit.com/aedition/sleeping-better-after-cosmetic-surgery-aesthetic-procedures) we’re getting each night is directly related to our overall health and wellbeing. But there are a number of disorders that can cause poor sleep, and many people are unsure of how to resolve their issues for more restful slumber.

You may be inclined to head to your primary care doctor or a sleep specialist to get to the root of the problem, but there’s another provider who you may be surprised to learn can help — your dentist. [According to The American Academy of Dental Sleep Medicine (AADSM)](https://www.aadsm.org/for_patients.php#:~:text=Dental%20sleep%20medicine%20is%20an,best%20treatment%20for%20each%20patient.), dental sleep medicine is an area of dental practice that focuses on the use of oral appliance therapy to treat common sleep-disordered breathing conditions (including obstructive sleep apnea), as well as snoring and [teeth grinding](https://aedit.com/aedition/botox-to-treat-tmj-disorders-and-jaw-slimming). 

There are a number of factors to consider before heading to the dentist for help with sleep disorders, and this guide will have you well on your way to the best [beauty sleep](https://aedit.com/aedition/impact-of-beauty-sleep-on-skin-health-nighttime-skincare-products) ever.

## **How Dentistry Can Help You Sleep Better**
The ideal candidate for a dentistry appliance for better sleep is someone who has problems sleeping due to snoring, trouble breathing, and clenching/grinding their teeth. [Stacy Spizuoco, DDS](https://aedit.com/provider/stacy-spizuoco-29347), a New York City-based cosmetic dentist with Onsite Dental and clinical instructor at Columbia University College of Dental Medicine, recommends different types of appliances based on a patient’s sleep issue:

- **For Snoring**: “I recommend an appliance that positions the lower jaw forward,” she says. 
- **For Clenching & Grinding**: She suggests either a hard and soft appliance that “doesn’t allow the patient to lock into it while sleeping.” 
- **For Breathing Issues & Sleep Apnea**: “I’ll schedule a sleep study with a physician to determine severity,” she explains. “If it’s mild, I recommend a device similar to the one for snoring.”

Patients with moderate to severe apnea and other serious breathing issues may need more advanced treatment, including surgeries to remove the uvula, tonsils, adenoids, and turbinates for easier breathing and better sleep.

## **How Quickly You’ll See Results**
Most people will feel relief the very first night, but Dr. Spizuoco likes to give her patients two weeks in order to see how they take to the dental appliance. And while future usage will depend on the patient’s condition, most people will need to use the appliance on a regular basis in order to continue enjoying results.

If the appliance alone is not enough, there are other things that can be done to further help you get better sleep. “If the clenching or teeth grinding is due to stress, I’ll recommend meditation and yoga or removal of the cause of stress if possible,” Dr. Spizuoco explains. “For others that have pain and muscle spasms in the jaw, a physical therapist can help.”

## **The Takeaway**
If you are dealing with sleep issues like snoring, teeth grinding, or mild cases of sleep apnea, you may benefit from using a dental appliance to induce a better night’s sleep. Be sure to consult with your dentist to determine if such treatments are right for you. Sweet dreams!

There are several sleep disorders that can be treated by heading to the dentist. Here’s what you need to know.

The Benefits Of Dental Appliances For Better Sleep

Can Your Dentist Help You Sleep Better?

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From Michelle Obama’s toned triceps to Dwayne Johnson’s bulging biceps, the desire for sculpted arms is real. Logging hours in the gym with weights and pushups will certainly build muscle, but it might not be enough to provide the strong silhouette you’re after. “Today’s patients are definitely looking for arm slimness with contouring,” says Thomas Su, MD, a cosmetic surgeon and founder of [Art Lipo Arm Liposuction & Plastic Surgery Center](https://artlipo.com/?utm_source=rcw&utm_medium=press_release&utm_campaign=outreach&utm_content=pr) in Tampa, FL. 

Back in the day, cosmetic procedures that treated the arms would remove excess skin and/or fat, but they didn’t provide the kind of refinement that is now available. From high-definition liposuction and implants that sculpt to a modern twist on the classic arm lift, here are three procedures for toned and taught arms.

## **1. Liposuction**
You may have heard about [‘high-def’ lipo](https://aedit.com/aedition/high-definition-liposuction-techniques-for-body-contouring) for the abdomen to create a more chiseled torso, but what about a liposuction technique that has a similar effect on the arms? While traditional arm liposuction methods tend to focus exclusively on the underside of the upper arm, Dr. Su has pioneered a more comprehensive approach he calls [Celebrity Arms](https://www.youtube.com/c/ArmLiftLiposuctionExpertDrThomasSuArtlipo/featured). “[It] is different from traditional arm lipo because it is a 360-degree, or circumferential, treatment — not just the underarm area,” he explains. 

The water-assisted liposuction procedure reveals the natural muscle contour and can be performed alone or in tandem with other treatments (think: lipo to slim upper back, bra bulges, or forearms; skin tightening with [Renuvion®](https://www.renuvion.com/); or brachioplasty to remove excess skin). “The ideal candidates for this procedure are women 20 to 40 where loose skin is not an issue,” Dr. Su says. “However, we commonly treat women over 40 and usually combine it with an additional skin tightening treatment to address the extra skin issues.” 

Performed under local anesthesia, the procedure takes about three hours and involves five to seven small incisions. Compression garments are needed for the first two weeks post-op, at which point most of the pain and discomfort subsides. Minor swelling may persist for one to three months, but patients can resume most daily activities (including going back to work) after a few days. Results are immediate and long lasting, assuming the patient maintains a healthy weight. 

Since the procedure removes fat to reveal natural musculature, you might be wondering if you need to tone up before treatment. While it’s not required, it doesn’t hurt. “As far as achieving a defined, toned look, it is not necessary to work out, but it does help,” Dr. Su notes. “As with any procedure, lifestyle always helps to enhance the long-term results.”

## **2. Bicep & Tricep Implants**
For those looking to bulk up a little or a lot, bicep and tricep implants may be an option. Not just for bodybuilders (though fitness-focussed men and women are common patients), the ideal candidate has “the desire for larger biceps and/or triceps or may be relatively weak in that body part due to genetics, trauma, muscle rupture, or injury,” says [Ryan Stanton, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/ryan-stanton-md-644), a board certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon in Beverly Hills. 

Performed alone or together, bicep and tricep implants can create arms of all shapes and sizes. As Dr. Stanton explains, he provides custom-molded looks for his patients that range from “slender, tasteful, and proportional results” to “dramatic, massive augmentations.” Each procedure takes about an hour under general anesthesia and requires a single three- to four-centimeter incision (usually in the armpit) to place the silicone implant.

Unlike silicone breast implants that [need to be replaced](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-replacing-breast-implants) every 10 years, bicep and tricep implants are considered permanent because “they cannot rupture and leak,” he notes. After surgery, the results are immediate and the initial recovery period is about a week. Dr. Stanton says patients with “desk job-type work” can return after three days or so, but you must refrain from exercising those muscle groups for six weeks.

As with any implant, there is potential for it to flip or rotate — especially when it is not placed within a muscle — but Dr. Stanton’s surgical technique minimizes the concern. “This risk can be greatly limited by creating the perfect surgical pocket around an anatomically shaped implant,” he explains. Other than avoiding arm workouts for 6 weeks, he allows patients to resume all activities post-op.

## **3. Brachioplasty (a.k.a. Arm Lift)**
If you’re looking to wave goodbye to arm flab, [brachioplasty (a.k.a. arm lift)](https://aedit.com/procedure/arm-lift) is a tried-and-true surgical procedure that removes excess skin and fat for a slimmer, smoother, and firmer appearance. “An arm lift is for anyone with extra skin of the upper arm, with or without excessive fat,” explains [Lauren Chmielewski, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/lauren-chmielewski-md-143), a board certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon in New York City. While individuals who have undergone major weight loss and have excess skin are typical candidates, she says patients with focal areas of fat in the upper arm that are resistant to diet and exercise can also benefit from the procedure.

Brachioplasty is usually performed under general anesthesia and takes one to two hours. Depending on the patient’s needs, liposuction may be done in tandem. When it comes to scarring, Dr. Chmielewski says the degree of the mark is proportional to the amount of skin removed. “The trade-off for removing extra skin is placing a scar on the arm,” she shares. “The scar can be placed posteriorly on the upper arm or on the inner arm under the biceps muscle. Patients with minimal extra skin may be candidates for a shorter scar in the armpit.”  

Swelling, soreness, and limitations on lifting heavy objects are common for several weeks post-op. “The arms are wrapped or kept in a compressive garment to help manage swelling,” Dr. Chmielewski says. “And pain medication is utilized as needed.” Clearance to lift the arms and carry things is gradually increased once the incision is healed around two weeks post-op, she adds. 

The results are permanent, so long as the patient doesn’t gain a significant amount of weight that deposits fat in the arm and stretches out the skin. The scar will fade over the course of the first year, at which point a variety of [scar minimization techniques](https://aedit.com/aedition/minimizing-scars-after-surgery) can be employed to further reduce its appearance.

While brachioplasty is effective at slimming the silhouette of the arm, Dr. Chmielewski notes that it will not affect the appearance of the arm muscles. “To tone the upper arms, I generally recommend working out the biceps, triceps, and shoulders with light weights,” she shares. She suggests [multiple reps a few times a week](https://aedit.com/aedition/best-fitness-classes-workouts-exercises-to-try-at-home) for best results and says the workouts can begin in the lead up to the procedure. “This can be done as ‘prehab’ before the surgery and continued at four to six weeks after surgery — or whenever the incision is healed,” she says.

Aesthetics

From Michelle Obama’s toned triceps to Dwayne Johnson’s bulging biceps, the desire for strong, sculpted arms is real. Here’s how to get them without a trip to the gym.

How To Get Slimmer Arms With Cosmetic Surgery

3 Procedures That Sculpt And Contour The Arms

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Aromatherapy, a natural way to use scent to cause a physiological response, is no longer just for self-care Sundays. Gaining popularity in the medical field, essential oils are increasingly playing a role in pre- and post-procedure care. When you consider the mind-body connection, it shouldn’t be surprising that it can be an important facet of the recovery process. While doctors might not have focused on the [benefits of aromatherapy](https://aedit.com/aedition/unexpected-things-to-know-about-the-plastic-surgery-operating-room) in medical school, there is a renewed interest in integrating eastern traditions into western medicine — especially as it relates to how patients heal.

## **Aromatherapy in Aesthetic Medicine**
According to a [study published](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5743169/) in Laryngoscope Investigative Otolaryngology, aromatherapy helps combat preoperative anxiety, which can have a negative impact on patient satisfaction and outcomes. “The decision to use essential oils before and after a procedure was actually made in collaboration with one of my anesthesiologists, who had been using them for years for her surgical patients,” says [Gregory Buford, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/gregory-buford-md-1015), a Denver-based board certified plastic surgeon. “She found that patients not only went to sleep more relaxed, but they also awoke more relaxed.”  

At high levels, the stress hormone cortisol can impede healing. Whether it’s elective or not, it’s only natural for anxiety and stress to rise in situations that include surgery. By introducing calming essential oils, providers are effectively modulating stress levels and cortisol to create a more positive outcome for their patients. “An integral part of the overall outcome itself is actually the experience,” Dr. Buford shares. “If we can create a very positive experience for our patients then our outcomes actually improve.”

## **How to Use Essential Oils**
Surgeons like Dr. Buford are applying a small amount of a calming essential oil (think: [lavender](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5743169/)) inside their patients’ masks prior to induction. Post-procedure, [Ixchel Leigh](https://artisanparfums.com/the-collections), aromatherapist and author of *[Aromatic Alchemy: Recipes for Transformation](https://www.amazon.com/Aromatic-Alchemy-Recipes-Transformation-Ixchel/dp/0967594138)*, recommends inhaling your oil of choice by placing one drop onto a clean cloth, bringing it close to your nose, and taking three to five deep breaths. Another way to incorporate calming oils to help reduce your stress levels is to add two to three drops into one ounce of coconut oil or sweet almond oil and massaging the formulation into your hands or feet.

## **How to Choose an Essential Oil**
Not all essential oils are created equal. The quality of the oil you purchase for post-procedure use will make a big impact on your results. In order to find an oil that’s pure, therapeutic, and potent, here’s what you need to look for:

- The Latin binomial should be listed on the label next to the common name. For example: Lavender (*Lavendula augustifolia*)
- The country of origin should be listed on the label or website
- Third party testing should be easy to find and prove that the oil isn’t diluted with other essential oils or synthetic chemicals
- Look for the words ‘wildly crafted,’ ‘organic,’ and ‘ethically sourced’ on the label

Leigh likes [Eden Botanicals](https://www.edenbotanicals.com/products/essential-oils-pure-therapeutic-grade/essential-oils-a-b.html) because they craft smaller batches of essential oils, meet all of the standards above, and are fairly priced. If you are wondering what scent to choose, there are a few essential oils that are known for inducing calm:

- Lavender (*Lavendula augustifolia*)
- Roman Chamomile (*Anthemis nobilis*)
- German Chamomile (*Michelia alba*)

## **The Takeaway**
Incorporating nature’s medicine into western medicine is increasingly common. When it comes to essential oil use pre- and/or post- procedure, make sure to speak to your doctor first. Despite the many benefits, they can be irritating and misuse can be toxic. Once you get the all clear, however, get ready to relax. “Creating this positive environment for surgical patients can literally create a differentiating factor between two surgical practices,” Dr. Buford says. “If both practices have similar outcomes but one proactively creates a more relaxing and positive environment, it only makes sense that a patient would choose the latter.”

Could your favorite essential oil be the secret to a better recovery? The AEDITION asks the experts.

Aromatherapy And Essential Oils For Plastic Surgery Recovery

The Benefits Of Aromatherapy Pre- And Post-Procedure

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Approaching double-digit growth and generating nearly one billion dollars a year in the United States alone, [eyelash extensions](https://aedit.com/procedure/eyelash-extensions) have become big business. Between the price point (a full set costs between $175 and $500 for first timers) and maintenance (monthly touchups running $80 and $150), finding the right technician to perfect your lash look is so important. But it’s not just about cost, cleanliness, or comfort level — it’s about connecting with an experienced pro who’s able to evaluate your anatomy and create a design that enhances your unique features.

Developing the ideal lash look is more complicated than it may seem. A lash extension artist must consider everything from eye shape and lid height/depth to natural lash length, texture, curl, and direction. Oh, and then there is the client’s desired result to consider. This is especially true for clients of Asian descent and those with monolid or hooded eyes. To learn more, we talked to Mydygma Nimbueva, a premiere lash specialist and owner of [Beautyful Lashes Salon](https://www.beautyfullashes.com/) in Beverly Hills.

## **The Relationship Between Lash Extensions & Eye Shape**
Eye shape plays a big role in lash extension techniques, and this is particularly true for clients with monolid and hooded eyes. “As an Asian lash artist and educator, who also wears lash extensions, it’s very easy for me to understand our struggles and our needs,” Nimbueva shares. “A lot of Asian women try to find an Asian hairstylist who knows how to work with Asian hair and a makeup artist who specializes in Asian makeup because our faces and our beauty is different.”

Technically, there are a half dozen different classifications for the Asian eyelid, but Nimbueva breaks it down more simply:

- **Monolid**: This is an eyelid without a visible crease. There are variations within this category, Nimbueva explains, with some lids closed along the entire eye, some closed toward the beginning (near the nose) and more open at the outer corner, and some with a combination.
- **Partial Monolid**: Eyelids that show only a portion of the crease are known as half, partial, or demi monolids. “In the majority of cases, these eye shapes are a little bit asymmetric,” Nimbueva says. “We can correct that with different styling on each eye.”
- **Open Eye**: Open eyelids have a distinct crease that visibly separates the lower and upper portions of the eyelids. This can be either genetic (“I have an open eye type,” Nimbueva says.) or obtained via [blepharoplasty](https://aedit.com/aedition/what-its-really-like-to-get-eyelid-surgery-blepharoplasty) — one of the most common cosmetic surgery procedures in Asia.

And then there is the growth pattern of the lashes themselves. Nimbueva explains that having lush locks on the head (“we are blessed with great hair,” she quips) doesn’t necessarily translate to the brows and lashes. Women of Asian descent often have sparse brows and fragile, straight lashes (short or long in length) that grow downward. It’s not hard to understand then why many Asian women turn to lash extensions as a semi-permanent substitute for traditional eye makeup, like [mascara](https://aedit.com/aedition/best-lengthening-curling-volumizing-mascaras), strip lashes, and eyeliner.

## **Lash Extension Techniques**
It’s clear when talking to Nimbueva that applying eyelash extensions is a combination of both art and science. Each look is highly customized to the individual client, but there are some commonalities she’s noticed over the years. “Forty percent of my clients are Asian,” Nimbueva estimates. “Some prefer a really natural, almost flat curl that is a little bit thicker than her natural lashes.” The second group, she explains, is just the opposite. “Those women who aren’t blessed with long, strong, curly lashes and want to feel like they’re maximizing their investment want a very long, very full, almost mega-volume technique.”

<CaptionImg url={https://images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/3cTtHDN3LE8acDt73cIqUY/82f089bc7ac09f783afdba918974eb4c/mydygma-nimbueva-beautyful-lashes-tiffany-edit.png}>
  A before and after look at one of Nimbueva's clients.
</CaptionImg>

### **Volume**
- **Classic Technique**: Traditionally, the most subtle, natural looking lash extensions use a 1:1 ratio, where a pro glues one individual lash extension onto each natural lash.
- **Russian Volume/Megavolume Technique**: This ultra-lush look is achieved by creating a “fan” of multiple lashes (anywhere from two to 16) that is paired with one individual natural eyelash. “A megavolume look can be amazing on Asians with monolids,” Nimbueva says. “It can cover the monolid if we choose the right length and can create the illusion of the open eye.” Those with small, round eyes, however, should avoid megavolume, as it can make the eyes appear even smaller.

### **Shape**
- **Doll Eye**: This look focuses the attention on the center of the eye. The longest eyelash extensions are placed at the center of the eye, and the length gradually decreases towards the corners. This shape is best for almond-shaped eyes because “a doll eye look on round eyes makes them look smaller,” Nimbueva notes.
- **Cat Eye**: The longest lashes are placed towards the outer corner of the eye to achieve an elongated appearance, and it’s ideal for those with round and small eyes. 
- **Asian Eyelid Lift**: Nimbueva is uniquely trained in the method developed in Kazakhstan by lash pioneer Malika Nauryzova, which creates a ‘double lid’ look on a monolid, without eyelid surgery. It also works well on slightly hooded and aging eyes, because it gives a little bit of lift. Due to the added complexity, this treatment takes three to four hours.

Anecdotally, Nimbueva notes that she has noticed sensitivities and allergic reactions (most commonly to cyanoacrylate, the main ingredient in lash glue) are less common among her Asian clients.

## **Lash Extension Types**
Because the lash extension industry isn’t regulated, Nimbueva warns that the same false lash type produced by different manufacturers will vary. If you’re aiming for a specific look, it’s best to defer to your lash specialist.

<CaptionImg url={https://images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/6aRlEYB2FAfamhR9YCjIaq/c006614140472449a58c987626841288/mydygma-nimbueva-beautyful-lashes-tam-edit.png}>
  A before and after look at one of Nimbueva's clients.
</CaptionImg>

To achieve a natural effect, Nimbueva relies primarily on three lash extension types. “C is the most classic curl in lash extensions, more of a natural curl,” she explains. “J and B curl is a flatter curl.” For clients with open eye types looking for a more dramatic effect (and lots of volume), CC curl and D curl tend to offer the best results. Those with downward-facing lashes, meanwhile, benefit from L+ curl extensions because they have “a longer leg and an extreme curl that goes up,” she says. But that doesn’t mean they are for everyone. L+ lashes may feel heavy and can twist as they grow out.

To avoid weighing down the natural lashes, Nimbueva favors very fine eyelash extensions — those with a thickness of 0.03 millimeters. These lashes, particularly in a CC curl, create a “very natural, wispy, feathery look,” she shares. Her preferred L+ curl lashes are just a fraction thicker at 0.05 millimeters. For perspective, most salons in the U.S. use extensions that range from 0.10 to 0.15 millimeters. The ultra-light lashes tend to be favored by elite pros to create more volume without weight, though you’ll pay a bit more for the service.

## **The Takeaway**
No matter your eye shape and eyelash type, it is important to find a professional who has extensive training treating clients with similar needs. Nimbueva says that any reputable lash artist will ask you about your goals and ideas during your consultation. “I often end up doing a combination that elongates and opens up the eyes at the same time,” she explains. In her experience, clients are extremely loyal once they find a lash pro who really understands their unique anatomy and objectives. “I educate and make it fun for them,” Nimbueva explains. “Each of my clients is her own designer. She can’t stop looking at herself in the mirror afterwards — it gives her a boost of self confidence.”

When it comes to applying eyelash extensions, there is no such thing as one size fits all. Here, an expert lash stylist breaks down the relationship between eye shape and lash techniques.

Eyelash Extension Techniques For Monolid, Hooded, Asian Eye Types

A Guide To Lash Extensions For Monolid And Hooded Eyes

shutterstock 1473027695

It seems there’s a [new injectable](https://aedit.com/aedition/new-injectables-neurotoxins-fillers-for-face-body) every few months that promises to work better and longer and give more natural results. Come January 2021, another will be added to the list: [Renuva®](https://myrenuva.com/). And although it gives the effect of a traditional filler, that’s not quite what it is. Marketed as “an off-the-shelf alternative to autologous fat transfer,” it does its work by triggering the body to create more of its own fat in targeted areas. 

Part of a larger trend in injectables that’s all about stimulating your body to create the anti-aging elements you lose over time rather than replacing them with outside agents, Renuva® promises to be an interesting addition to the ever-growing selection of anti-aging injectables. Here are the basics. 

## **How Renuva® Works**
Renuva® is an adipose allograft matrix composed of collagen, proteins, and growth factors derived from donated and purified fat. Think of it as a scaffolding that triggers your body’s fat production. After it’s injected, “your stem cells divide and grow into new fat cells that populate the new collagen matrix that it creates,” says [Leif Rogers, MD](https://leifrogersmd.com/), a board certified plastic and reconstructive surgeon in Beverly Hills. In other words, the solution gets replaced over time with your own fat.

In addition to resulting in less post-injection swelling, the technology purportedly eliminates that uncanny effect that can happen when filler sits awkwardly on top of moving facial muscles. As Dr. Rogers explains, the new volume “is living cells in the anatomical layer it belongs in. Because of that it will look and animate naturally.” What’s more? He says those new fat cells can live “for at least 10 years, if not longer.”

In line with injectables like Ellansé®, Radisse®, and Sculptra® (all of which trigger the body to boost its collagen production), Renuva® is one more piece of an industry-wide shift. The thinking behind these treatments is to enhance the body's own reparative abilities. “It overlaps with general healing as well as anti-aging and longevity — essentially the doorway to the fountain of youth,” Dr. Rogers says.

Similar to the recent positioning of certain neurotoxins and fillers as [‘clean’ or ‘pure’ injectables](https://aedit.com/aedition/clean-injectable-filler-neurotoxin-trend), West Hollywood-based board certified dermatologist [Jason Emer, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/jason-emer-md-722), sees patient desire driving this turn. “People are wanting ‘regenerative’ procedures that stimulate your own body to improve over time,” he explains. “They like the idea of more ‘natural’ and less ‘synthetic’ injectables.” 

Another selling point? The decade-long results. “People are looking for more long-term improvements since COVID-19 has limited how often someone wants to go into an office to do treatments,” he notes.

## **What Renuva® Is Best For**
The treatment works in areas of the face that naturally have fat cells, including the temples, nasolabial folds, chin, jawline, and cheeks. It can also be used on the hands. And that’s not all. “It's great [to use] post-surgical on patients with small indentations or irregularities on the body, like in the breasts or in cellulite, and those with botched liposuction procedures,” Dr. Emer says. 

Renuva® is recommended for patients who desire mild plumping, but Dr. Emer has seen it used successfully beyond that. “We often will go ‘off label’ by mixing it with Sculptra® to use for buttock and male chest augmentation to build fat volume and collagen at the same time,” he explains. 

It’s important to note that Renuva® is not your best option if speed is your priority. Unlike [hyaluronic acid-based dermal fillers](https://aedit.com/aedition/everything-you-need-to-know-about-dermal-fillers) that offer immediate volume, the fat-building process can take months. So, while the results are long lasting, they can take several months to show up.

Additionally, Renuva® can’t be dissolved like HA-based fillers — but the process it sets off can be halted along the way. “If the volume is undesirable or if there are firm areas that the patient does not tolerate during the process of fat growth, a diluted steroid can be injected into the area to stop the function of the growth factors, as well as the proliferative phase of fat growth,” Dr. Rogers explains. 

## **The Takeaway** 
While it won’t replace the instant gratification of HA-filler, Renuva® will further diversify a growing range of injectables that go beyond filling to stimulate natural volume restoration. The cost of Renuva®, which will be available across the United States early next year, starts at $1,040 for 1.5 cc (though it varies based on practice and size of the treatment area). Dr. Rogers describes the price as “approximately equivalent to the longer-lasting hyaluronic acid injectables like Juvederm® Voluma.”

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Marketed as an off-the-shelf alternative to autologous fat transfer, Renuva® works by triggering the body to create more of its own fat in targeted areas.

The AEDITION

Expert Opinion