shutterstock 1009468246 (1)

*Feel like you need a dictionary every time you look at the ingredient list of a beauty product? Still unsure of the difference between retinol and retinoids? What about the unique benefits of vitamins B, C, and E? Are alpha and beta hydroxy acids the same thing? The skincare aisle can be overwhelming, but you don’t need a PhD in cosmetic chemistry to navigate it. With expert help, The AEDITION is demystifying and simplifying the beauty industry — [one label at a time](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/read-the-label).*

Winter is upon us, which likely has your complexion feeling perpetually parched. And it’s not in your head. While we may curse the humidity that leaves our faces oily and hair frizzy in the summertime, the lack of it (both indoors and outdoors!) come winter leaves the skin more apt to lose what little moisture it has left. The result? Desert-like conditions that can leave skin dehydrated and dull.

But that is not to say we are resigned to a rough ride until spring. With the right skincare routine, you can counteract the effects of the cold, dry air outside and artificially heated, arid inside air that accompanies the dead of winter.

“I highly recommend ingredients that will help prevent transepidermal water loss and ingredients that provide a protective barrier on the skin,” says Valerie George, cosmetic chemist and co-host of [The Beauty Brains](https://thebeautybrains.com/), of her approach to winter skincare. Adding in an exfoliator, meanwhile, will “help remove any dry, dead skin that does occur,” she shares. 

So, what exactly should you incorporate into your skincare routine this winter to avoid a dry, pasty pallor? The AEDITION tapped George and cosmetic chemist and [BeautyStat](https://beautystat.com/) founder Ron Robinson to get their expertise on the most important ingredients of the season for face and body.

## **1 & 2. Petrolatum + Shea Butter** 
“Ingredients like petrolatum and shea butter prevent the skin from losing moisture to the ambient atmosphere when relative humidity is low by providing a protective barrier,” says George. Known for their rich, emollient properties, petrolatum is a highly purified derivative of crude oil that is FDA approved for use in skincare, while shea butter is a plant lipid extracted from the karite tree that contains triterpene esters. 

Using them in tandem has a “synergistic effect” that offers both skin protection from dry air and the healing benefits of the terpenes, she says — adding the ingredients work best when they are “left on the skin in the form of a moisturizer and not washed off down the drain.” [Vaseline](https://www.target.com/p/vaseline-original-petroleum-jelly-7-5-oz/-/A-12705213) is perhaps the best known petrolatum-based product, and we are partial to the raw, unrefined shea butter in the [Karite Creme Corps Hydrating Body Cream](https://www.thedetoxmarket.com/products/creme-corps-hydrating-body-cream). If you are prone to acne or clogged pores, George suggests using products with these ingredients sparingly on the face.

## **3. Vitamin C** 
This jack-of-all-trades antioxidant works year-round, but Robinson says topical use of the “essential nutrient” in the wintertime can “improve skin’s tone and texture.” He recommends using a facial serum containing vitamin C at least once a day on clean skin, but it is important to do your due diligence before settling on a formula. Robinson says the ingredient is “notoriously unstable” and prone to breaking down when exposed to light or air, so you’ll want to look for products that are “stable,” “have air-tight packing,” and come with “independent clinical test results.” He formulated his [BeautyStat Universal C Skin Refiner](https://beautystat.com/universal-c-skin-refiner/) with 20 percent pure vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid) and EGCG (the active component of green tea), which boosts the anti-aging benefits (think: reducing the look of fine lines, firming and tightening skin, and evening tone).
 
## **4. Ceramides**
Both George and and Robinson agree that the naturally occurring lipids are a must for winter. “Applying them topically can help reinforce the barrier and moisturize the skin,” says Robinson, who notes that they are great for hydrating both the face and body. His [BeautyStat Universal Pro-Bio Moisture Boost Cream](https://beautystat.com/universal-pro-bio-moisture-boost-cream/), for example, is designed to correct dryness and make skin less sensitive. “Ceramides are a natural part of the skin barrier and are essential to balanced skin,” George adds.
 
## **5. Hyaluronic Acid** 
One of the buzziest ingredients on the market today, Robinson defines hyaluronic acid (HA) as “a polysaccharide found naturally in the skin that helps keep it hydrated.” While there is no wrong time of year to incorporate HA into your regimen, winter makes particular sense because, when applied topically, “it works as a humectant — meaning it can draw and hold water to the skin's surface,” he says. Using an HA-based serum or moisturizer, like the [The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5](https://www.sephora.com/product/the-ordinary-deciem-hyaluronic-acid-2-b5-P427419) serum or [Neutrogena Hydro Boost Gel Cream](https://www.ulta.com/hydro-boost-gel-cream?productId=xlsImpprod12041837), twice a day (read: morning and night) can heal dry skin and leave it soft and supple.
 
## **6. Chemical Exfoliants** 
While it may seem counterintuitive to exfoliate dry skin, both George and Robinson say it is important to slough off dead skin cells. “If skin has been dry, I recommend a chemical exfoliant followed by a moisturizer,” George says. “This will help remove any dead, dry, and dull skin, while making sure your skin stays hydrated for the winter air.”
 
While there are an array of alpha and beta hydroxy acids (i.e. AHAs and BHAs) to choose from, Robinson suggests lactic acid because it can “both exfoliate and moisturize the skin.” As a result, he says the AHA can be “used on very rough and dry skin on the body.” He likes the [Amlactin Daily Moisturizing Body Lotion](https://www.amazon.com/AmLactin-Moisturizing-Alpha-Hydroxy-Exfoliates-Paraben-Free/dp/B07BRQC5XZ?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1), which is formulated with 12 percent lactic acid to “leave skin smooth and hydrated.” A bit of exfoliation is important, but be careful not to over do it. “It’s important not to over exfoliate during winter, so that dry skin is not exacerbated,” George warns. “Exfoliate sparingly!”
 
## **7. Green Tea** 
Not only the basis of your favorite Starbucks order, Robinson says green tea (often found on ingredient labels under the name 'camellia sinensis') is rich in antioxidants that have skin-boosting benefits. Applying it topically will allow your complexion to drink up the anti-inflammatory and soothing benefits of epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) — the most important component of green tea. He recommends applying a facial moisturizer or serum (like his [BeautyStat Universal C Skin Refiner](https://beautystat.com/universal-c-skin-refiner/)) with the extract morning and night for smoothing and toning benefits.

AEDITION complexion perfection-min

Beauty Collection | The AEDITION

Beauty

From barrier-protecting emollients to dull skin-fighting exfoliants, The AEDITION asked two cosmetic chemists to share their go-to skincare ingredients for winter.

Nourishing And Hydrating Skincare Ingredients To Use For Winter 2020

7 Skincare Ingredients To Add To Your Routine This Winter

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*Feel like you need a dictionary every time you look at the ingredient list of a beauty product? Still unsure of the difference between retinol and retinoids? What about the unique benefits of vitamins B, C, and E? Are alpha and beta hydroxy acids the same thing? The skincare aisle can be overwhelming, but you don’t need a PhD in cosmetic chemistry to navigate it. With expert help, The AEDITION is demystifying and simplifying the beauty industry — [one label at a time](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/read-the-label).*

When it comes to aging and skincare, it seems that there’s one ingredient that is akin to the fountain of youth: topical vitamin A. Helping restore that vibrant glow while tackling fine lines and wrinkles, this powerhouse active was first introduced as an anti-acne staple before taking on the anti-aging market and marking its territory on nightstands all over the world. 

Though topical vitamin A products might help diminish the appearance of fine lines, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and acne while giving you smoother skin, they can also cause irritation, flakiness, and redness if not used properly. So, while it is touted as the gold standard of at-home skincare routines, there are still a few myths surrounding the multitasking active ingredient that The AEDITION is here to clear up.

## **Is It Vitamin A, Retinol, or Retinoid?** 
Simply put, both retinoids and retinols are derivatives of vitamin A. They contain different concentrations of the active ingredient retinoic acid, which boosts cellular turnover and treats skin concerns ranging from large pores and acne to wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

“Retinol is a true multitasker that helps address multiple concerns and is great when used long term,” says Beverly Hills-based celebrity aesthetician [Shani Darden](https://www.instagram.com/shanidarden/?hl=en), whose [eponymous skincare line](https://www.shanidarden.com/) prominently features the ingredient.

<PullQuote attributedTo={Shani Darden, Celebrity Aesthetician}>
  “Retinol is a true multitasker that helps address multiple concerns and is great when used long term.” 
</PullQuote>

Retinol products are less potent than their retinoid counterparts because of their molecular structure. Retinols tend to be milder and work more gradually than retinoids because they are composed of esters (like retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, and retinyl linoleate) that need to be converted into retinoic acid before they can be used by the skin. 

While retinol is the form of vitamin A most commonly found in over-the-counter skincare products (think: serums, creams, etc.), retinoids are mostly found in prescription topicals. Regardless, both are considered highly effective for men and women of all ages.

## **What Are the Benefits of Vitamin A in Skincare?**
Retinoic acid helps to stimulate cell turnover and boost collagen production, which allows it to treat three common skin concerns:

1. Acne and Acne scars
2. Dark Spots and Hyperpigmentation
3. Fine Lines and Wrinkles  

Its ability to promote cellular regeneration leads a reduction in the appearance of hyperpigmentation and, therefore, improves radiance. That same exfoliating quality also makes it ideal for treating and preventing acne. “It exfoliates the skin to help unclog congestive acne and clear out blackhead and whitehead acne,” says board certified dermatologist [Rita Linkner, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/rita-linkner-md-8907), of Manhattan’s Spring Street Dermatology. “It also is helpful in those with sun damage to clear out lentigines, which is brown discoloration associated with sun exposure.” 

As for the most sought-after benefit of minimizing the appearance of lines and wrinkles? Board certified dermatologist [Morgan Rabach, MD](https://lmmedicalnyc.com/), of LM Medical in New York City explains that the anti-aging results come about because retinoids “minimize the appearance of wrinkles by increasing collagen production.” 

## **Prescription Retinoids vs. Over-The-Counter Retinol** 
When looking for the right vitamin A product for your skincare routine, strength is a big factor. Before you start slathering on the first one you find in the skincare aisle, know that OTC retinol products might not work as quickly or actively as a prescribed retinoid. 

“Prescription retinoids come in all different strengths from really weak to really strong, much stronger than those you can get over the counter,” Dr. Rabach explains. “The beauty of a prescription or medical-grade retinol is that amount has been tested and contains a predictable percentage of active retinol.”

She recommends opting for a prescription retinol to guarantee that it is coming in the purest form. “Many OTC products can claim they contain a retinol, but these claims are not FDA regulated,” she explains, adding that “you also don't know which retinoid it is or its strength.” 

<PullQuote attributedTo={Morgan Rabach, MD}>
  “The beauty of a prescription or medical-grade retinol is that amount has been tested and contains a predictable percentage of active retinol.”
</PullQuote>

While prescription retinoids might be more predictable and potent, those not ready to commit to a trip to the dermatologist can start out with an OTC variant. These products come in a range of formats (lightweight serums to richer creams and lotions) often include other active ingredients that are meant to complement the retinol while soothe and moisturize the skin. 

Darden, for instance, formulated her cult-favorite [Retinol Reform](https://www.shanidarden.com/collections/shani-darden/products/resurface-by-shani-darden-retinol-reform-1oz) serum with lactic acid, niacinamide, and aloe vera to even skin texture while also calming the complexion. “Retinol Reform has lactic acid to gently exfoliate, which allows for some immediate smoothing and brightening benefits while the retinol does it’s work behind the scenes,” she explains. “I formulated it to also include aloe, which helps to soothe the skin and offset dryness. Overall, it’s important to make sure you’re keeping the skin hydrated.”  

## **When and How to Add Vitamin A to Your Routine**
Because it has origins as an anti-acne treatment, age doesn’t necessarily play a strong factor as to when to start using a retinoid, but it is always best to consult your dermatologist before making significant changes to your regimen — especially at a young age. 

Patients in their late twenties who aren’t already using a retinoid or retinol to treat acne, may start to incorporate it to counteract the loss of skin elasticity, and it is never too late to add it to your routine. Men can use it too, of course, though Dr. Linkner advises that guys “make sure to use more retinol than women because of the increased density of hair follicles.”

Whether you are in your twenties or fifties, starting with an OTC retinol or a prescription retinoid, patience is a virtue. To avoid the irritation, flakiness, dry skin, and redness that often accompanies introducing vitamin A into your routine, be methodical in your approach and understand that, like with everything in life, good things come to those who wait. 

<PullQuote attributedTo={Rita Linkner, MD}>
  “Men should make sure to use more retinol than women because of the increase density of hair follicles.”  
</PullQuote>

Darden advises her clients to “start slowly with one night a week.” From there, you can “add one additional night each week” and “build up to as often as your skin can tolerate.” Ultimately, “it’s so important to build up slowly and allow your skin time to acclimate,” she says. 

Another tip? Cut back on the rest of your routine. “It’s best to limit the use of other actives when introducing retinol into your routine, so that you don’t irritate or over-exfoliate the skin,” Darden shares. To minimize any irritation, Dr. Linkner encourages her patients to “apply a moisturizing cream prior to retinoid use.” She says the extra layer “creates a buffer” that “in essence, dilutes down the retinoid.” 

Using a hyaluronic acid-based product prior to retinol, meanwhile, can “increase its potency,” Dr. Linkner says. Darden also believes in pairing retinol with an HA product and is a fan of [Dr. Nigma’s Serum No 1](https://www.shanidarden.com/collections/all/products/dr-nigma-talibs-serum-n-1) and [iS Clinical’s Hydra-Cool](https://www.shanidarden.com/collections/all/products/is-clinical-hydra-cool-serum) because they “will deeply hydrate and help skin hold on to moisture.”

## **Side Effects of Retinoid & Retinol Use** 
As with any skincare product, results are not immediate and certainly not miraculous. In the case of retinols and retinoids, skin irritation and flakiness are common for many in the beginning. While retinoids can exacerbate skin conditions like eczema and rosacea, most patients can successfully use the ingredient. “Sometimes people think that they are allergic or can't tolerate retinol when their skin gets dry,” Dr. Rabach says. “But these are normal side effects that can be minimized if you are using the correct strength and amount.” 

## **Biggest Misconceptions About Retinoids & Retinols** 
Throughout the time that retinol has been accessible, there have been misconceptions about its safety and efficacy. On the flip side, the degree to which some users sing its prasises may have you wondering if it is too good to be true. To clear up the most common confusion, we asked our experts to clear up the myths. 

### **Myth 1: You Shouldn’t Use Retinol in the Summer or Morning**
Retinol and retinoids are best used at night — but not for the reason you might think. Contrary to popular belief, retinol does not make the skin more susceptible to burning, but retinoids have been shown to break down and deactivate in the sun (hence the opaque packaging they come in). For best results, apply the product to clean, dry skin after the toner step in your nightly routine. But don’t take this as an excuse to skimp on sunscreen. Wearing a [high-SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen](https://aedit.com/aedition/what-you-need-to-know-about-sunscreen) everyday is still a must to prevent sun-related damage. 

### **Myth 2: You Can Overuse Retinol** 
On a day to day basis, Dr. Rabach says the idea of retinol ‘overuse’ is a myth. “The only time I would say someone is overusing retinol is if their skin is super dry, flaky, and sensitive,” she shares. With that said, Dr. Linkner does believe in regularly switching up your skincare routine to maximize performance and benefits. She recommends a cadence swapping out your regimen once per season, which will ensure your complexion is always being treated for its specific needs. 

### **Myth 3: Retinol Will Thin Your Skin**
“The biggest misconception is that continued use thins the skin,” Dr. Linkner says of regular retinol and retinoid use. There doesn’t seem to be scientific evidence to back up this claim and because of the ingredient’s regenerative qualities, it actually keeps skin smooth and youthful. 

## **The Takeaway** 
Vitamin A might seem like the fountain of youth, but, as with any active ingredient, it should be approached mindfully for best results. Yes, it can help treat acne, diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and correct pigmentation, but users should always be mindful of the time of day they are using it, the amount of product they are applying, and its potency. 
Prescription retinoids will always be stronger than their OTC counterparts, but no one product or ingredient is a silver bullet and patience will always be key. “Overall, retinol is best when used long term,” Darden says. “You have to stick with it to really see the benefits.” 

From acne to wrinkles, vitamin A is a powerhouse ingredient that addresses many of our most pressing skin concerns. But how does it work? The AEDITION is here to answer all your questions about retinol and retinoid use. 

A Guide To Vitamin A, Retinol, And Retinoids In Skincare

Read The Label: All Your Retinol And Retinoid Questions Answered 

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*Feel like you need a dictionary every time you look at the ingredient list of a beauty product? Still unsure of the difference between retinol and retinoids? What about the unique benefits of vitamins B, C, and E? Are alpha and beta hydroxy acids the same thing? The skincare aisle can be overwhelming, but you don’t need a PhD in cosmetic chemistry to navigate it. With expert help, The AEDITION is demystifying and simplifying the beauty industry — [one label at a time](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/read-the-label).*

We all know about the pink tax when it comes to razors — and that cringeworthy “for her” pink pen campaign several years ago also comes to mind. The way women are marketed toward has certainly changed in the past few years, with an uptick in feminine care products like Thinx, a razor brand with imagery that shows women actually shaving off dark hair instead of the Gillette Venus razor ads of yore that featured women shaving smooth skin — that was already perfectly shaved. 

The marketing in the deodorant aisle is similarly gendered. While women’s scents use language like “soft breeze,” men’s fragrances purport to smell of the dulcet tones of things like “winter tundra” screaming in all caps. 

So, when it comes to skincare, are there actual differences between men’s and women’s products? Or is it all smoke and mirrors (i.e. marketing)? To find out, we talked to a dermatologist, cosmetic chemist, and the lead scientist at a brand that offers products for both genders. 

## __The Difference Between Men’s & Women’s Skincare Products__

Cosmetic chemist and [beautystat.com](https://beautystat.com/) founder Ron Robinson says there are big differences based on product aesthetics and skincare needs in men’s versus women’s product formulations. Nancy Ilaya, PhD, scientific director at [Kiehl’s](https://www.kiehls.com/), says that texture and sensorial profiles differ between men’s and women’s ranges. 

“Based on surveying the marketplace, men’s skincare products tend to be more functional in terms of packaging, regimen, ingredients, lighter weight in textures with more traditional formats – gels, gel creams, lotions; and masculine in terms of sensorial cues,” she says. “Men’s skin requires special care in the beard area as facial grooming can leave the area exposed to irritation from shaving and vulnerable to ingrown hairs.” She notes that in the Kiehl’s range, the [Age Defender](https://www.kiehls.com/mens/age-defender/) and [Facial Fuel](https://www.kiehls.com/mens/facial-fuel/) lines are specially formulated to address men’s needs with specific treatments for managing pre- and post-shave skin.

<PullQuote attributedTo={Nancy Ilaya, PhD}>
  “Men’s skin requires special care in the beard area as facial grooming can leave the area exposed to irritation from shaving and vulnerable to ingrown hairs.”
</PullQuote>

Contrastingly, women’s skincare products are a little more complex when it comes to ingredient combinations, claims, and regimens. “Common across many women’s skincare products on the market are formulations that have richer textures and come in several formats – creams, gels, lotions, milks, emulsions, oils, jellies,” Dr. Ilaya explains. These are largely driven by women’s engagement in skincare, diversified preferences, the self-care role of skincare, and willingness to use multiple products to manage skin needs, she adds. 

Robinson agrees that women’s products tend to be more segmented, as the women’s skincare category is so much bigger than the men’s. For example, many women’s ranges offer products for fine lines, wrinkles, firming, even skin tone, oil control, and extra hydration, while “men’s skincare might address only a few of those needs,” he says. 

## __The Difference Between Men’s & Women’s Skin__

Are there differences between men’s and women’s skin? The short answer is yes. 

“Male skin tends to be more sebaceous and have an increased density of hair follicles,” says dermatologist [Rita Linkner, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/rita-linkner-md-8907), of Spring Street Dermatology in New York City. “That means that men require active ingredients that are higher in concentration and formulations that are able to deliver active ingredients into skin that is oilier/more glabrous.” She says that gel-based cleansers are better for men as opposed to cream-based ones that are ideal for women for this reason. 

<PullQuote attributedTo={Rita Linkner, MD}>
  “Male skin tends to be more sebaceous and have an increased density of hair follicles. That means that men require active ingredients that are higher in concentration and formulations that are able to deliver active ingredients into skin that is oilier/more glabrous.” 
</PullQuote>

As for body products, Dr. Linkner says there are even more differences in formulation — and for good reason. “Oil glands and hair follicles increase in size and density in a male, compared to a female,” she explains. Men also typically have more body hair, a higher density of sweat glands, and oilier skin, whereas the opposite is true for women, Dr. Ilaya adds. “The key to selecting body products is to address the skin’s needs and note texture preferences,” she says. “To manage men’s oily body skin, especially in the breakout- and ingrown hair-prone back and chest, [Kiehl’s Body Fuel](https://www.kiehls.com/body/body-wash-and-scrubs/body-fuel/KHL991.html) is ideal as it contains salicylic acid to address oily skin.” 

[Kiehl’s Crème de Corps](https://www.kiehls.com/body/creme-de-corps/), meanwhile, comes in different textures to appeal to both genders. “For men, opt for a lighter weight whipped version or dry body oil to help supplement skin moisture loss,” Dr. Ilaya suggests. Even though men tend to be oilier, it is still important that women moisturize to maintain a healthy moisture barrier. For women, Dr. Ilaya says that the rich texture of Crème de Corps Lotion nourishes skin post-shower and alleviates dryness that’s common among women.  

Of course, men’s and women’s hormones vary, as well, which affects their skin respectively. “Male testosterone means men can be more body-acne prone and female estrogen means that skin quality and dryness changes with age, i.e., with menopause and pregnancy,” Dr. Linkner says. The result? Distinct product offerings. “Because of these differences, they require products that address their skin’s unique needs,” Dr. Ilaya says. 

## __The Difference Between Men’s & Women’s Hair__

Most hair care products for men are, justifiably, focused on hair loss, Dr. Linkner says, adding that “women’s hair care products are only more recently catching onto this with female-pattern hair loss becoming demystified.” Robinson notes that men also tend to have shorter, thicker hair, so their styling needs may be different. “Men’s products tend to be lighter weight and fast-absorbing,” he says. 


Similar to differences in hair product marketing, there are also differences in hair removal marketing. Robinson explains that because men shave their faces, they have a much larger category of products to address this, similar to the products on the market for women to use to shave their legs.  

## __The Takeaway__ 

Though the targeted offerings vary in size and solutions based on the differences between men’s and women’s skin, Robinson admits that a lot does come down to marketing. “One major brand in particular was well known to offer the same formula for both men and women but packaged and marketed differently,” he says. 

Of note, per the deodorant trend discussed above, the fragrances tend to vary among bodycare and haircare, as well. “Men’s products tend to have a more ‘masculine’ scent that typically is more woodsy or herbal,” he says. If the product is fragrance free, however, then it might appeal to both genders. Suncare, for example, is typically considered unisex (i.e. marketed to both genders).

Dr. Ilaya notes that while certain products are marketed for men or women, the majority of products are genderless. “Speaking with several consumers, it’s common knowledge that boyfriends, brothers, husbands ‘borrow’ skincare products from the women in their lives,” she says. 

At the end of the day, good products speak for themselves. “The skincare category is flooded,” says Dr. Linkner. “The brands my patients are asking about are the ones holding true to their branding, regardless of price point.”

AEDITION for men-min

Expert Opinion Collection | The AEDITION

Expert Opinion

We’ve all seen the products emblazoned with the words ‘for men,’ but is there really a difference between men’s and women’s skincare? The AEDITION investigates.

Differences Between Men's And Women's Skincare And Grooming Products 

So, What's The Difference Between Men's And Women's Skincare?

austin-jackson-4wf7tjTlOj0-unsplash (1)

*Feel like you need a dictionary every time you look at the ingredient list of a beauty product? Still unsure of the difference between retinol and retinoids? What about the unique benefits of vitamins B, C, and E? Are alpha and beta hydroxy acids the same thing? The skincare aisle can be overwhelming, but you don’t need a PhD in cosmetic chemistry to navigate it. With expert help, The AEDITION is demystifying and simplifying the beauty industry — [one label at a time](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/read-the-label).*

For most men, dipping their toe in the world of skincare can be overwhelming. There are so many products, so many hard-to-pronounce words, so many steps! But an [effective skincare routine](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-mens-grooming-skincare-routine) doesn’t have to be complicated. That’s great news for men since they tend to favor simple, quick regimens with minimal steps.

When it comes to skincare, it’s all about the ingredients you’re using. Think of your routine like your diet. Your body needs certain nutrients to function properly, and most of us give at least some thought to what we put into our bodies so we can workout better, have more energy, and function at a higher level. Your skin is the same way. Considering what you’re putting on your face will ensure your skin is as healthy as it can be.

It’s been scientifically proven that [men’s and women’s skin has subtle differences](https://www.researchgate.net/publication/26337535_Gender-linked_differences_in_human_skin). Men’s complexions tend to be thicker (by up to 25 percent — depending on who you ask), have larger pores, and produce more sebum (read: oil). Men also sweat about twice as much as women, and their sweat contains more lactic acid, which raises the pH balance. This doesn’t mean, however, that men can only use products that say “for men” on the label. Many of these products are not actually formulated specifically for a man’s skin, and, even if they were, the [jury is out](https://www.wsj.com/articles/do-men-and-women-really-need-different-skin-care-11565279679) on whether the difference between men’s and women’s skin is drastic enough to warrant different products. 

Instead, men should choose products based on their skin type. If you don’t know your skin type, your first stop should be a trip to your dermatologist or your aesthetician, who will be able to analyze your skin and let you know. Many men, for instance, think they have oily skin but actually have dry skin. Once armed with your skin type, identifying products that will work best for you is a more straightforward process — and remember, you can ask that same provider for recommendations.

Another thing that makes decoding the skincare aisle a little easier? Knowing which ingredients to look for and what they do for the skin. We spoke to board certified dermatologist [Ron Shelton, MD](https://www.laserskinsurgery.com/Dermatologists/Ronald-Shelton-MD), of Manhattan’s Laser & Skin Surgery of New York to find out what ingredients should (at a minimum!) be in every man’s skincare routine.

### __1. Sunscreen__
“The most important skincare ingredient every man should have in his routine is sunscreen,” says Dr. Shelton. “Daily sunscreen use is very important to reduce further aging of the skin.” Something else it reduces the chances of? Sun damage and skin cancer, which has been shown to affect more men than women. What kind of sunscreen you use is a personal preference. Chemical sunscreens (like [Jaxon Lane Rise & Shine Sunscreen](https://jaxonlane.com/products/rain-or-shine-daily-moisturizing-sunscreen)) work by absorbing UV rays and dispersing them, while physical sunscreens (like [REN Clean Screen Mattifying Face Sunscreen](https://www.sephora.com/product/clean-screen-mattifying-face-sunscreen-spf-30-P442990)) form a protective layer on the skin to reflect rays. Shelton notes that “with perspiration, some sunscreens will run down from the forehead and irritate the eyes.” In that case, he recommends mineral-based, physical sunscreens. Remember to always use a sunscreen that is SPF 30 or higher.

### __2. Hyaluronic Acid__
Chances are you’ve seen the word ‘hyaluronic acid’ on bottles of moisturizer and serums and that’s because it’s one of the most important and universal skincare ingredients. This naturally occurring substance is vital to skin cells’ ability to retain moisture. It’s also a humectant, which means it has the ability to draw moisture from its surroundings. Make sure that whatever moisturizer you use contains a high percentage of hyaluronic acid (it should be listed towards the top of the ingredients list) and, if you want to go the extra mile, use a hyaluronic acid serum in addition to a moisturizer. We’re fans of layering the [Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Hyaluronic Acid Cloud Cream](https://www.sephora.com/product/water-drench-hyaluronic-cloud-cream-P415701) on top of the [The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Serum](https://www.ulta.com/hyaluronic-acid-2-b5?productId=pimprod2007107).

### __3. Antioxidants__
Another cornerstone of every skincare routine is antioxidants, which help control the negative impact free radicals can have on your skin. Free radicals are caused by UV rays, pollution, and other environmental factors and have been shown to increase signs of aging as well as contribute to overall inflammation of the skin. Using skincare products that contain antioxidants like vitamin C or vitamin E can reduce that inflammation and not only curb signs of aging, but also reduce the appearance of dark spots, uneven skin tone, and redness. Look for a moisturizer that contains antioxidants like [OleHenriksen C-Rush Vitamin C Gel Cream](https://www.sephora.com/product/c-rush-tm-brightening-gel-cr-me-P430337) or use a serum like [Skinceuticals C E Ferulic](https://www.dermstore.com/product_C+E+Ferulic_5230.htm).

### __4. Retinol__
Retinol, a derivative of vitamin A, is one of the workhorses of dermatology. These days, most of the conversation around retinol is about lines and wrinkles. While it’s a powerful anti-aging ingredient, it is also an effective tool against acne. It works by increasing cell turnover, which means it fast-tracks the production of new skin cells and helps clear away dead ones. Oh, and it’s especially important for men who haven’t been the best at wearing sunscreen. “Guys with sun damage should be using retinol,” says Dr. Shelton. “It can help reverse some signs of sun damage such as irregular coloration and can improve the collagen layers below the epidermis.” Retinols can be irritating at first, so start slow and apply it only at night. Once you start using retinol, you must wear sunscreen every day as sunlight can increase sensitivity. Beginners should first ease themselves in with a gentle version, like [RoC Deep Wrinkle Night Cream](https://www.ulta.com/deep-wrinkle-night-cream?productId=prod2097134).

### __5. Peptides__
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that make up of the proteins of our skin. Think about collagen and elastin (i.e. the components of skin that keep it tight and looking fresh): those proteins are made up of amino acids. Using a skincare product that contains peptides can help keep these proteins plentiful and healthy in your skin, which, in turn, will keep it looking healthier and younger. Peptides can be found in all types of products these days, but if you’re trying to keep steps to a minimum, look for a moisturizer that has them. We like [Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Moisturizer](https://www.sephora.com/product/protini-tm-polypeptide-cream-P427421) and [First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydra-Firm Sleeping Cream](https://www.sephora.com/product/ultra-repair-hydra-firm-sleeping-cream-P393076).

### __6. Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids__
Exfoliation is key to every skincare routine, but if you suffer from breakouts and acne, using an acid instead of a scrub to exfoliate can make all the difference. Alpha hydroxy acids (think: glycolic acid or lactic acid) help to break the bonds between dead skin cells and gently slough them away from the surface of the skin. Beta hydroxy acids (like salicylic acid), meanwhile, get down into the pores and dissolves built-up oil and debris inside. Depending on your skin type, you may want to incorporate one or both. Using an exfoliating toner, like [Glossier Solution](https://www.glossier.com/products/solution), a few times a week will help get rid of dead skin cells and leave skin clear and fresh.

### __7. Ceramides__
One of the most important components of your complexion is the skin barrier, a microscopic layer of lipids that helps to keep moisture inside your skin but also keep environmental pollution out. When products are too aggressive, or you exfoliate your face too much, the skin barrier can become compromised and inflammation can occur. That can lead to redness, dry skin, and even acne. “Ceramides are great in moisturizers to replace the skin’s barrier,” says Dr. Shelton. Ceramides are lipids (the same kind that make up the natural skin barrier) and using a product that can replenish them can help maintain a healthy barrier. Look for a moisturizer like [Paula’s Choice Ceramide Enriched Firming Moisturizer](https://www.paulaschoice.com/clinical-ceramide-enriched-firming-moisturizer/212.html) that contains ceramides and use it morning and night.

### __8. Charcoal__
You may have noticed that lots of men’s products contain charcoal, but it’s not just a marketing ploy. Activated charcoal has been used for thousands of years to absorb toxins. When it comes to your skin, Dr. Shelton says “charcoal can help absorb over-produced amounts of oil.” If you have oily skin, using a cleanser (like [Odacite Black Mint Cleanser](https://odacite.com/products/black-mint-cleanser) or [Clinique For Men Charcoal Face Wash](https://www.clinique.com/product/1611/34923/mens/3-step-mens/cleanse/clinique-for-mentm-charcoal-face-wash)) that contains charcoal can help curb the production of oil and help cut down on blackheads and breakouts. It should be noted, however, that charcoal may be too harsh for people with sensitive skin, so don’t use it every day when you first start out.

## __One Ingredient to Avoid__
“If you have sensitive skin, avoid alcohol-based products as they tend to be drying,” says Dr. Shelton. Traditionally, alcohol has been included in skincare products to help dry skin and make it less oily — at least in the short term. Long term, it can actually disrupt the skin barrier by stripping away too much oil. This is particularly a problem for people with sensitive skin, who depend on a healthy skin barrier to keep inflammation in check — but everyone should be wary of how much alcohol they’re putting on their skin. Look for products that say ‘alcohol-free’ on the label instead.

From hydrating hyaluronic acid to detoxifying charcoal, The AEDITION rounds up the skincare ingredients that should be in every guy’s grooming routine.

Best Skincare And Grooming Ingredients For Men

8 Ingredients That Should Be In Every Guy’s Skincare Routine

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*Feel like you need a dictionary every time you look at the ingredient list of a beauty product? Still unsure of the difference between retinol and retinoids? What about the unique benefits of vitamins B, C, and E? Are alpha and beta hydroxy acids the same thing? The skincare aisle can be overwhelming, but you don’t need a PhD in cosmetic chemistry to navigate it. With expert help, The AEDITION is demystifying and simplifying the beauty industry — [one label at a time](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/read-the-label).*

Change of season, change of skincare.

So goes our motto here at The AEDITION, and, with the hot and humid days of summer behind us, there is no better time to reevaluate what products we’re making room for on our vanities.  

Fall’s sweater weather ushers in cooler temps and drier air, which means the lightweight serums and moisturizers you were using to combat summer’s tropical climate may not provide the level of nourishment your skin now needs. Oh, and if you took a break from some of your more sensitizing products (think: retinols, acids, and the like) because you had upped your time in the sun, now could be the time to reach for them again — and atone for those summer skin sins. 

So, when it comes to fall skincare, what are the non-negotiables? We went straight to the experts — in this case, the aestheticians and skin specialists that treat some of Hollywood’s most famous faces — to find out their must-have ingredients of the season, why they love them, and how to use them!

![Shani Darden product](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/6NdNkJdhMiVaJan9jvPaFb/0dba8957da42873846d5f54c972204b2/Shani_Darden_product.png)

__The Pro:__ Shani Darden, aesthetician and founder of [Shani Darden Skin Care](https://www.shanidarden.com/)
__The Ingredient:__ Hyaluronic Acid
__The Superpower:__ "As the weather gets cooler and the air becomes drier, I love to add hyaluronic acid to my routine," says the Beverly Hills aesthetician, whose clients include Jessica Alba, Chrissy Teigen, and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley. "It’s a great way to attract more hydration to the skin without needing to rely on a heavy moisturizer. It will really plump up the skin — helping it to look more glowing and hydrated."
__How To Use It:__ Because the naturally occurring sugar molecule can hold 1,000 times its weight in water, you don't need a rich cream to enjoy a serious moisture boost. Darden recommends [Dr. Nigma Serum No. 1](https://www.shanidarden.com/products/dr-nigma-talibs-serum-n-1) because the added peptides and plant stem cells "provide deep hydration and minimize the appearance of fine lines," while her own [Daily Oil-Free Moisturizer](https://www.shanidarden.com/collections/shani-darden/products/shani-darden-daily-oil-free-moisturizer) is "a lightweight, fast-absorbing moisturizer with hyaluronic acid to hydrate without causing congestion ... for normal to oily skin types."

![Renee Rouleau product](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/5nvmL3XK897CsIf1yz3Ado/49530b87a3055d0e97dec595a5d889e3/Renee_Rouleau_product.png)

__The Pro:__ Renée Rouleau, aesthetician and founder of [Renée Rouleau Skincare](https://www.reneerouleau.com/) 
__The Ingredient:__ Retinol 
__The Superpower:__ "The purest form of vitamin A, retinol is a cell-communicating ingredient and antioxidant that stimulates collagen, activates cellular metabolism to encourage faster cell turnover, fades brown spots and discoloration, and improves skin firmness," says the Austin-based skin expert, who treats stars like Demi Lovato and Lili Reinhart. "Simply put, it’s an anti-aging powerhouse that can be tolerated by even the most sensitive skin types. It is one of the most studied and proven ingredients on the market and truly has the ability to create permanent change for the look of the skin."
__How To Use It:__ If you took a break from your go-to vitamin A product over the summer, Rouleau says now is the time to start reaching for it again. Her pick? The [Advanced Resurfacing Serum](https://www.reneerouleau.com/products/advanced-resurfacing-serum) from her Renée Rouleau Skincare line that she describes as "a retinol cream treatment to repair sun damage, lift brown spots, smooth the skin, and reduce the look of lines, wrinkles and large pores over time." Oh, and it's specifically formulated for "sensitive skin types" and "those whose skin has been unable to tolerate prescription forms of vitamin A retinoids."

![Joanna Vargas product](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/4U8P29nqiWdZuHgn8vsVXy/e01e27cb87284d05ba87e4f14798b15e/Joanna_Vargas_product.png)

__The Pro:__ Joanna Vargas, celebrity facialist and founder of [Joanna Vargas Salons and Skincare](https://joannavargas.com/)
__The Ingredient:__ Avocado Oil 
__The Superpower:__ "It contains so many amazing vitamins for the skin and lymphatic system, so it will de-puff, hydrate and soothe the skin," says the bicoastal facialist, who works with the likes of Rachel Brosnahan, Debra Messing, and Tessa Thompson. "Avocado oil is essential because it's loaded with B vitamins and omega 3 fatty acid. Omega 3 helps keep the skin hydrated from the inside out. It plumps the lipid layer of the skin making the skin look lifted and baby soft."
__How To Use It:__ Because of fall's drier (read: not humid) air and cooler temps, Vargas says the skin needs some extra TLC. She suggests adding nourishing ingredients in as many ways as possible. For starters, her cleansing [Ritual Bar](https://shop.joannavargas.com/collections/shop-all/products/ritual-bar) contains green tea to "soothe and improve sun damaged skin," coffee extract to "increase circulation and serve as an anti-inflammatory," and avocado oil to "hydrate and nourish." To ensure the complexion stays "persistently hydrated," she recommends her [Daily Hydrating Cream](https://shop.joannavargas.com/collections/shop-all/products/daily-hydrating-cream-50ml1-6oz), which calms inflammation and is great for sensitive skin types thanks to — you guessed it! — avocado oil. 

![Kristina Holey product](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/6PTamDGwjDcCKMiZshqhDI/20e4c96b2d4fba23dcb00d255daf52a3/Kristina_Holey_product.png)

__The Pro:__ Kristina Holey, [holistic skin care specialist](https://www.kristinaholey.com/)  
__The Ingredient:__ Vitamin C
__The Superpower:__ "Vitamin C is a multitasker. It is required to build collagen; it inhibits tyrosinase to brighten skin and fade hyperpigmentation; it is a potent antioxidant and sun protector. It is great for fall to recover from summer's increased sun exposure," says the San Francisco-based facialist, who [co-created a line of skincare products](https://www.kristinaholey.com/pages/products) with Marie Nadeau of Marie Veronique. "Vitamin C is not only essential for collagen production, but it also has many other benefits ... internally and externally it is a very crucial ingredient for body function." 
__How To Use It:__ Holey is quick to note that not all vitamin C is created equal. Because of its potency, the antioxidant can cause sensitivity if not formulated properly. She recommends the [Marie Veronique Vitamins C + E + Ferulic Serum](https://www.marieveronique.com/collections/serums/products/vitamin-c-e-ferulic-serum) for "healthy, balanced skin" because it features both stabilized ascorbic acid and two vitamin C derivatives. "It increases the overall potency for skin that can tolerate ascorbic acid with a delivery system designed to get vitamin C where it needs to go in forms the skin can utilize to regenerate, heal, and repair itself," she shares. 

![Tammy Fender](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/23BFfFSbTUrI45yBvtQsU7/b70e1ca5e0a38f6d3eb17727bc4c2038/Tammy_Fender.png)

__The Pro:__ Tammy Fender, skin therapist and creator of [Tammy Fender Holistic Skin Care](https://www.tammyfender.com/)
__The Ingredient:__ Elder Flower
__The Superpower:__ "Elder Flower, which is celebrated in traditional herbalism for its immune-boosting properties, is also wonderful for the complexion," says the Palm Beach holistic practitioner, who has worked with celebrities like Gwyneth Paltrow and Julianne Moore. "What I love about this legendary skin protector is the way that it soothes the skin — diminishing irritation but also, surprisingly, encouraging circulation and lymphatic drainage. In my experience, that’s how this remedy works on the energetic level, too — breaking up stagnation."
__How To Use It:__ Calling it "a favorite ingredient" that she turns to again and again in both the treatment room and her apothecary, Fender says the botanical is "essential" to her "firming and cooling" [Awakening Eye Gel](https://www.tammyfender.com/products/awakening-eye-gel) and [Spontaneous Recovery Crème](https://www.tammyfender.com/collections/moisturizers/products/spontaneous-recovery-creme), which she describes as her "most protective and rich moisturizer."

![Leila Aalam](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/sWCuOmRnWW5ZxmCaf6ciz/63c5bb445113142454ee8168cbd1c96c/Leila_Aalam.png)

__The Pro:__ Leila Aalam, aesthetician and founder of [Beuti Skincare](https://beutiskincare.com/)
__The Ingredient:__ Fermented Pomegranate Seed Oil
__The Superpower:__ "I love our fermented pomegranate seed oil for fall when the skin tends to get dry," says the London-based aesthetician, whose natural skincare line is rumored to be a favorite of the Duchesses of Cambridge and Sussex (a.k.a. Kate Middleton and Meghan Markle). "It is the holy grail of oils as it contains a rare omega 5 known as punic acid and has three times as many antioxidants as green tea. It promotes pro-collagen synthesis and ... with its high punic acid content, pomegranate seed oil has strong anti-inflammatory powers, which is the number one cause of skin aging."
__How To Use It:__ The fruit extract can be found throughout Aalam's Beuti Skincare line, but her latest launch, the [Pomegranate Glow Enzyme Cleanser](https://beutiskincare.com/product/pomegranate-glow-enzyme-cleanser/), doubles as a face mask and contains fermented pomegranate seed oil that she says "acts as a gentle glycolic acid to exfoliate the skin — removing dirt, debris, and dead skin cells.” The result? "Healthy, glowing, and radiant skin."

![Kat Rudu product](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/77yoecCqcRFHrWHYiTDSUy/6485c44add68a9a0cd7d219db29df5dd/Kat_Rudu_product.png)

__The Pro:__ Kát Rudu, aesthetician and creator of [Kát Rudu Skincare](https://katrudu.com/)
__The Ingredient:__ Retinol + Peptides 
__The Superpower:__ "Coming off of summer sun, excessive heat, sweating, and sunscreen, we can all use a little clean up, skin smoothing, and pore refining. Cellular turnover is key here, and every woman should incorporate a gentle retinol serum into her daily routine — especially one that has peptides," says the Venice, California-based skin expert. "Peptides signal the skin to produce more collagen and are small molecules, so they are able to penetrate and get down to business. For me, the 'must have' is actually the pairing."
__How To Use It:__ To get the skin-smoothing and collagen-boosting benefits of retinol *and* the elasticizing effects of peptides, Rudu created her [Iconic Liquid Lift Peptides Serum](https://katrudu.com/collections/all/products/iconic-liquid-lift-peptides-serum). "This is an ultra-light regenerative serum-based product that delivers a botanical boost to plump, tone, and refine," she shares, adding that it also contains plant extracts like mulberry to "brighten," gotu kola to "lift and firm," niacinamide for "moisture," cabbage rose for "antioxidants," and cucumber and aloe "to soothe and eliminate any possible irritation or inflammation."

![Marius Morariu product](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/7pVE3PvMeyzWL9uTC0X5ot/af3ae299b0871a37daa0be84484cf31c/Marius_Morariu_product.png)

__The Pro:__ Marius Morariu, holistic nutritionist and product formulator/CEO at [Tracie Martyn](https://www.traciemartyn.com/)
__The Ingredient:__ Antioxidants
__The Superpower:__ "After summer, it’s important to start replenishing and restoring your skin to counteract the effects of sun exposure. We’re all about the antioxidants because they can really help both protect and revitalize your skin," says the multi-hyphenate, who works alongside celebrity aesthetician Tracie Martyn. "Every antioxidant works in a slightly different way, but the main thing they do is protect our skin from free radicals — unstable molecules that cause damage to skin cells." 
__How To Use It:__ As Morariu explains, there is an array of antioxidants to choose from, and he recommends the [Tracie Martyn Firming Serum](https://www.traciemartyn.com/products/tracie-martyn-firming-serum) because it is "packed with powerful antioxidants that help revitalize your skin in different ways." Tetrahexylde ascorbate, for example, is a stable form of brightening vitamin C, while resveratrol, a compound found in wine, "helps promote cell longevity." Glutathione (which he calls the “mother of all antioxidants”), Indian gooseberry extract, and green tea also help to lift, firm, and moisturize.

![Angela Gaglia Product](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/4FVxgqxF2QcJhKX0VmkAP7/f94b3a0e56bb9fdbe3d8062bda2a7c86/Angela_Gaglia_Product.png)

__The Pro:__ Angela Caglia, facialist and founder of [Angela Caglia Skincare](https://angelacaglia.com/) 
__The Ingredient:__ Hyaluronic Acid
__The Superpower:__ "Hyaluronic acid for fall is my favorite ingredient. It holds its weight 1,000 times in water and hydrates the skin without being too heavy," says the facialist, who works with clients like Helena Christensen and Minnie Driver in New York and L.A. "It’s perfect for most skin types — even sensitive. Keeping the skin soft and supple with hydration is one of the keys to looking younger."
__How To Use It:__ In addition to "drinking lots of water," Caglia suggests using a hyaluronic acid-based serum daily. Her [Detox Serum](https://angelacaglia.com/collections/angela-caglia-collection-all/products/angela-caglias-detox-serum-clean-beauty-crueltyfree), which she says is ideal for "hormonal breakout-prone skin" or "normal to oily skin with large pores," contains chlorophyll to "oxygenate the cells," sage extract to "purify," meadowfoam seed oil to "protect the barrier," and tea tree to "eliminate bacteria" — in addition to the moisture-boosting HA. "It has a light, cooling sensation that people love," she says of the product.

From hydrating hyaluronic acid to skin-smoothing retinol, leading skin experts share their top picks for the ingredients you should add to your skincare routine this fall.

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