What Are Neuropeptides, and Do You Need to Add Them to Your Skincare Routine?

In a world where anti-aging skincare trends change each season, it can be really tough to keep up with the newest ‘it’ ingredients - and even tougher to know if there’s any merit to including them in your daily routine. One of these buzz-worthy ingredients are neuropeptides: small chains of amino acids are responsible for acting as chemical messengers that can reportedly reduce signs of aging without the need for injectables. But the real question is, do they really work? We’ve spoken to dermatologists Dr. Marisa Garshick Dr. Marisa Garshick and Dr. Amy Spizuoco Dr. Amy Spizuocoand Dr. William A. Kennedy III to get the inside track on neuropeptides in skincare.

What are neuropeptides?

“Neuropeptides are an innovative skincare ingredient due to their unique ability to interact with the skin at a cellular level, offering a range of potential benefits” says Dr. Kennedy. From enhancing overall skin health and functionality, to promoting collagen synthesis and enhancing the skin's barrier function, vital for retaining moisture and protecting against environmental stressors neuropeptides have a dramatic effect on promoting healthy looking skin” Dr. Kennedy explains. “Neuropeptides are a topical treatment that can sometimes be called ‘Nature's Botox’” Dr. Spizuoco explains. “They are a topical treatment that can help reduce wrinkles, inflammation, and promote younger-looking skin.” These protein-like molecules, that can give various signals to your body. In skincare, “they provide a signal to the body that an action needs to take place. In the case of neuropeptides, the peptides block the release of chemicals that are responsible for muscle movement that leads to fine lines and wrinkles,” Dr. Garshick tells us. Indeed, research carried out by scientists at Granada University suggests that certain neuropeptides may reduce the appearance of common signs of aging by targeting specific cellular processes.

Where do neuropeptides get their names from?

The naming of neuropeptides can be confusing, so finding them in skincare labeling certainly isn’t always straightforward! While their scientific name is generally made up of the sequence of different amino acids that it is composed of, many of the most effective peptides that have been discovered are not marketed under brand names. For example, hexapeptide-8, one of the most frequently used neuropeptides in skincare, is marketed under the brand name Argireline®.

Which neuropeptide skincare formulations are most effective?

“As with many skincare products, serums tend to be most effective as serums often have a higher concentration of the active ingredient and may offer better penetration. Neuropeptides may also be combined with certain other ingredients like hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or glycerin to help plump the skin as well as other peptides that can help to firm the skin,” Dr. Gashick told us. When you’re shopping for skincare, look for products that include one of multiple of the following neuropeptides in their ingredient list:

• Acetyl hexapeptide-8: marketed under the brand name Argireline® is a synthetic peptide that is believed to work by inhibiting the release of neurotransmitters called catecholamines. It is understood that by blocking catecholamines Argireline may help reduce the appearance of fine lines that are associated with frequent repetitive movements such as crows feet or frown lines.

• Matrixyl 3000: the peptide is understood to work by gradually slowing down the glycation process, where sugars reduce the quality of the dermis (the second layer of the three-layer system that makes up your skin). The neuropeptide has also been found to reduce muscle contractions that lead to fine lines.

• Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (Pal-GHK): aka Matrixyl 3000, is used in plumping anti-aging products, the peptide “stimulates collagen production and improves skin elasticity” Dr. Spizuoco tells us.

• Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Pal-GQPR): “reduces inflammation and supports skin’s firmness and elasticity”, Dr. Spizuoco explains. You can generally find it in serums alongside other active ingredients that have been curated to reduce signs of aging.

• Pentapeptides: these peptides actually have five amino acids, and they can help improve the appearance of skin by boosting moisture absorption. They are often associated with hydrating ingredients to help maintain the healthy, youthful glow that we all seek.

• SNAP-8: this elongation of acetyl hexapeptide-8 is reportedly up to 30% more effective than its predecessor.

What skin concerns can neuropeptides address?

The primary benefit of adding neuropeptides to your skincare routine is addressing signs of aging at their root cause. By sending messages to the muscles that contract and accentuate fine lines, peptides are an excellent ally in fighting wrinkles. They could be of particular interest to those who are sensitive to retinol but who still want to take steps to prevent early signs of aging. Dr. Garshick explains: “Neuropeptides may be used as an alternative to retinol to help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in someone unable to tolerate retinol, even in their 20s and 30s.” But patients with more advanced signs of aging could still benefit from using them too, she says. “They can also be incorporated as individuals get older and lines may become deeper to help make the lines appear softer and smoother.”

What is the difference between neuropeptides and neuromodulators?

If you’re looking into antiaging skincare, chances are you have probably come across both terms. While they sound similar, their mechanisms are quite different. Neuromodulators (Botox®, Dysport®, Daxxify®, etc.) are injectables that work by blocking certain signals that allow muscles to contract. The mechanism is similar, though not the same, for neuropeptides. “Neuropeptides are peptides that are released as chemical messengers from nerve cells,” Dr. Spizuoco explained. “They act either in an endocrine manner, where they reach their target cells via the bloodstream, or a paracrine manner, as co-transmitters modulating the function of neurotransmitters”, she added. Neuropeptides are incorporated into topical skincare products to have a similar result as injectables, but the results aren’t as pronounced or as long-lasting. “Neuropeptides offer a great option for someone who isn’t yet ready for injectables or prefers to avoid injectables,” says Dr. Garshick. “While they will not deliver the same results as neuromodulators like Botox, they can be a good option and can be helpful to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Neuropeptides also have a role to be used in conjunction with neuromodulators as a complementary treatment and may be considered a form of maintenance,” she added. Says Dr. Kennedy, “while both neuropeptides and neuromodulators play crucial roles in the nervous system, neuropeptides are more specialized in direct neural communication and specific responses, whereas neuromodulators broadly adjust neural activity and functional states.”

In brief

Neuropeptides offer an exciting new type of skincare science, with the potential to revitalize rejuvenation skincare routines. As with any update to your skincare routine, it's absolutely essential to approach neuropeptides with a touch of caution by slowly introducing them to your routine. If you have sensitive skin or skin that is prone to acne or other issues, it’s always best to check in with your dermatologist to make sure the products you’re considering adding will work with your current regimen. If your skin gets on well with them, neuropeptides may well be the skincare ingredient you’ve been searching for all along.