Everything You Need to Know About Semi-Permanent Foundation & Contouring

Imagine rolling out of bed and looking like you’ve already had your skin prepped, primed, and airbrushed. That’s the promise of semi-permanent foundation and contouring treatments, a beauty trend gaining serious traction across aesthetic clinics and TikTok alike. But is it actually safe? Does it work? And who should really be signing up?

We dug deep into the science, the artistry, and the polarised opinions behind this trending treatment to get you everything you need to know before booking an appointment.

WHAT IS SEMI-PERMANENT FOUNDATION AND CONTOURING?

Semi-permanent foundation—often branded as BB Glow—is a cosmetic procedure where tinted serums are infused into the upper layers of the skin using microneedling. Think of it as a glow-up that lasts weeks instead of hours. The aim? A radiant, smooth, and even-toned finish that mimics makeup without the daily effort.

“Semi-permanent foundation and contouring are innovative aesthetic treatments that offer a polished, natural look with long-lasting effects,” explains Dr. William Kennedy, board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon. “Semi-permanent foundation involves the infusion of tinted pigment into the upper layers of the skin, helping to neutralize redness, cover hyperpigmentation, and create a smooth, radiant complexion. Semi-permanent contouring uses similar pigmentation techniques to subtly define and enhance the natural angles of the face—such as the cheekbones, jawline, and nose—without the need for daily makeup. These procedures provide patients with a low-maintenance, professionally applied finish that can last for several months.”

Think of it more like your bone structure went on vacation and came back glowing, not full beat glam.

“It’s essentially colour-correcting skincare delivered via microneedling,” explains Dr. A.M., a Los Angeles-based aesthetic practitioner who has opted not to offer the treatment in their clinic, and who wanted to remain anonymous. “The pigments are often not regulated the same way traditional tattoo inks are. That’s where we start running into problems.”

IS SEMI-PERMANENT FOUNDATION THE SAME AS BB GLOW?

In short: yes. BB Glow is the most widely marketed version of semi-permanent foundation, often bundled into facial packages at medspas. BB glow semi permanent foundation treatment provides a natural, long-lasting glow and helps cover imperfections such as dark spots, freckles, and redness. The treatment originated in Korea and has since spread globally, becoming a go-to option for clients wanting to ditch foundation altogether.

DOES SEMI-PERMANENT FOUNDATION ACTUALLY WORK?

Results vary, but many people see brighter, more even skin immediately after their sessions, with full effects visible after a few days. The pigments subtly tint the skin, blurring imperfections and reducing redness. The number of sessions needed may vary depending on the desired level of coverage and effect.

But it's not magic.

“If your expectations are realistic—like wanting a more consistent skin tone or slight radiance—it can deliver,” says Dr. A.M.. “But if you're expecting it to replace your full-coverage makeup routine, you might be disappointed.” Multiple sessions are often recommended to achieve the best results.

IS SEMI-PERMANENT FOUNDATION SAFE?

Here’s where it gets controversial.

Dr. A.M. warns that despite the glowing Instagram reels and influencer endorsements, the treatment isn’t without risk.

“The main concern is what’s being microneedled into the skin. Many of the serums used aren’t FDA-approved as tattoo pigments. Some even contain colourants banned in other industries, like food or cosmetics. There’s also the risk of allergic reactions and pigment migration,” they say.

Dr. Kennedy echoes this caution stating “while microneedling itself is a well-researched and widely adopted technique for treating concerns like acne scars, fine lines, and collagen stimulation, the addition of pigment infusion through the same method introduces new layers of complexity. Anytime you introduce foreign substances—such as pigment—into the dermal layers, there are added risks, including allergic reactions, uneven absorption, and long-term discoloration. These treatments should only be performed by highly trained professionals using medically safe, regulated products.”

Dr. A.M. adds “There’s a lack of long-term studies on how these pigments behave in the skin over time,” they said. “We also see uneven fading, especially if clients don't follow post-treatment protocols properly or have high sun exposure. These patients often consult us seeking solutions to treat underlying dullness, pigmentation concerns, or uneven texture as opposed to continuing down the route of camouflaging these issues in the long term.”

Before opting for a semi-permanent foundation, it’s crucial to consider your skin’s health and how the treatment may impact its overall well-being. That said, thousands of people undergo the treatment without issue. But it’s not something you should trust to just anyone with a dermapen and a pretty Instagram grid.

CUSTOM-TAILORED GLOW: WHY PERSONLIZATION AND PRACTITIONER EXPERTISE MATTER

When it comes to achieving that coveted glow, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. Glow semi-permanent foundation options are as diverse as the skin types and concerns they’re designed to address and customization is key. Many clinics offer tailored foundation options, adjusting the pigment blend and active ingredients to suit your unique skin type, whether you’re dealing with dark spots, large pores, or simply want to enhance your natural glow. Some clients opt for combination treatments, pairing semi-permanent foundation with other cosmetic procedures like chemical peels or microneedling to maximize results and address multiple concerns in one session.

No matter which option you choose, working with a qualified practitioner is a must. “The administration of semi-permanent foundation is not a one-size-fits-all procedure, and qualifications to perform it should reflect the complexity of the technique,” explains Dr. Kennedy. “While licensed aestheticians or permanent makeup artists may be permitted to perform the treatment in some regions, it’s critical that they have specialized training in both microneedling and pigment infusion. Because this procedure involves introducing foreign substances into the skin—often reaching the dermal layer—there’s potential for complications like infection, allergic reactions, or long-term pigment changes if not done properly. Ideally, these treatments should be performed by, or under the supervision of, licensed medical professionals who understand skin anatomy, aseptic technique, and pigment safety. Regulatory standards vary by location, but patient safety should never be compromised for cosmetic results.”

HOW LONG DO SEMI-PERMANENT RESULTS LAST?

Most semi-permanent foundation treatments last between 2 to 4 months, though some report effects fading sooner—especially in those with oily or fast-renewing skin types. The pigment does not wash off with regular cleansing, swimming, or sweating, which helps the treatment remain long-lasting. Contouring results are often subtler and fade quicker.

Factors that affect longevity include:

• Skin type, and oil production more specifically, sun exposure
• Skincare routine (especially exfoliating products)
• Smoking and lifestyle habits

Maintenance treatments every four-to-six weeks are usually recommended if you want to keep that fresh-faced effect year-round.

WHO SHOULD (AND SHOULDN'T) GET SEMI-PERMINNENT FOUNDATION?

Best Candidates:

• Those with uneven skin tone, redness, or dullness
• People who prefer a “no-makeup” makeup look
• Patients looking for temporary skin enhancement without invasive procedures

Not Ideal For:

• People with active acne, eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea
• Anyone pregnant or breastfeeding
• Patients with a history of keloid scarring or hyperpigmentation
• Those allergic to cosmetic pigments or prone to skin sensitivities

“Even if you’re in the ideal candidate pool, always request a patch test,” says Dr. A.M.. “Reactions can happen even with ‘natural’ ingredients.”

THE TREATMENT PROCESS: WHAT TO EXPECT

Session Breakdown:

• Consultation – Skin assessment and medical history review.
• Cleansing & Skin Prep – Skin is thoroughly cleansed and prepped with numbing cream if needed.
• Pigment Infusion – A microneedling pen deposits tinted serum into the epidermis.
• Post-Care – A soothing mask is applied, and patients receive detailed aftercare instructions.

HOW MANY SESSIONS ARE NEEDED?

Most clients require 2 to 3 sessions spaced 2 to 4 weeks apart to see optimal, buildable results. Many clinics offer package pricing to encourage clients to complete the series. After the initial results are achieved, patients will usually need top-up treatments once a month or once every six weeks.

PRE- AND POST-TREATMENT TIPS

Before:

• Avoid alcohol, caffeine, and blood thinners 24 hours prior
• Stop using retinol, acids, and exfoliants a week before
• No sunbathing or tanning beds

After:

• No makeup for at least 5-7 days
• Skip workouts, saunas, and swimming for 48-72 hours
• Use only gentle, hydrating skincare
• Wear SPF daily—this is non-negotiable

“Post-care is make-or-break for this treatment,” warns Dr. A.M. “Skipping sunscreen is the fastest way to undo your results, and trigger hyperpigmentation.”

CAN YOU STILL WEAR MAKEUP?

Yes, but not right away. Most providers recommend avoiding makeup for at least one week post-treatment to avoid irritating the skin or introducing bacteria into open micro-channels.

After that, makeup can be worn as usual, though you may find yourself reaching for it less.

REAL TALK: A DEVOTEE'S POV

Emma*, 29, started semi-permanent foundation a year ago and now books regular touch-ups like clockwork.

“I’ve always had red patches and uneven tone. BB Glow was honestly life-changing. My skin looks filtered—like, all the time. I don’t even wear foundation anymore unless I’m going out-out.”

While Emma is all-in, she acknowledges it’s not for everyone.

“You have to commit to aftercare. I once skipped sunscreen after a beach weekend and the pigment faded unevenly. Lesson learned.”

ARE THERE SAFER ALTERNATIVES?

If the idea of pigment microneedling gives you pause, here are some lower-commitment options:

• Skin tints & BB creams – Customisable, makeup-grade alternatives
• Microneedling (sans pigment) – Stimulates collagen and improves skin texture naturally
• Laser facials or chemical peels – For treating pigmentation, texture, and dullness
• Hydrafacials – For immediate glow which ideal ahead of a special event, for example

FINAL VERDICT

Semi-permanent foundation and contouring are not without their wow factor—but they also come with caveats. The treatment’s popularity is growing fast, but expert opinions remain divided.

If you’re curious, start with a consultation at a trusted medical-grade clinic. Check pigment ingredients. Ask about patch testing. And don’t skip SPF—ever.

“Flawless skin is always in, but safety should always come first,” says Dr. A.M.

*not her real name