A woman with radiant, even-toned skin and a natural, glowing complexion smiles warmly at the camera. Her skin appears smooth and flawless, showcasing the kind of results semi-permanent foundation and contouring can help achieve. This image reflects confidence, healthy skin, and the subtle enhancement offered by semi-permanent makeup treatments.

Everything You Need to Know About Semi-Permanent Foundation & Contouring 

Imagine rolling out of bed and looking like you’ve already had your skin prepped, primed, and airbrushed. That’s the promise of semi-permanent foundation and contouring treatments, a beauty trend gaining serious traction across aesthetic clinics and TikTok alike. But is it actually safe? Does it work? And who should really be signing up?

We dug deep into the science, the artistry, and the polarised opinions behind this trending treatment to get you everything you need to know before booking an appointment.

## **WHAT IS SEMI-PERMANENT FOUNDATION AND CONTOURING?**

Semi-permanent foundation—often branded as BB Glow—is a cosmetic procedure where tinted serums are infused into the upper layers of the skin using microneedling. Think of it as a glow-up that lasts weeks instead of hours. The aim? A radiant, smooth, and even-toned finish that mimics makeup without the daily effort.

“Semi-permanent foundation and contouring are innovative aesthetic treatments that offer a polished, natural look with long-lasting effects,” explains **[Dr. William Kennedy](https://aedit.com/provider/william-kennedy-md-26292)**, board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon. “Semi-permanent foundation involves the infusion of tinted pigment into the upper layers of the skin, helping to neutralize redness, cover hyperpigmentation, and create a smooth, radiant complexion. Semi-permanent contouring uses similar pigmentation techniques to subtly define and enhance the natural angles of the face—such as the cheekbones, jawline, and nose—without the need for daily makeup. These procedures provide patients with a low-maintenance, professionally applied finish that can last for several months.”

Think of it more like your bone structure went on vacation and came back glowing, not full beat glam.

“It’s essentially colour-correcting skincare delivered via microneedling,” explains __Dr. A.M., a Los Angeles-based aesthetic practitioner__ who has opted not to offer the treatment in their clinic, and who wanted to remain anonymous. “The pigments are often not regulated the same way traditional tattoo inks are. That’s where we start running into problems.”

## **IS SEMI-PERMANENT FOUNDATION THE SAME AS BB GLOW?**

In short: yes. BB Glow is the most widely marketed version of semi-permanent foundation, often bundled into facial packages at medspas. BB glow semi permanent foundation treatment provides a natural, long-lasting glow and helps cover imperfections such as dark spots, freckles, and redness. The treatment originated in Korea and has since spread globally, becoming a go-to option for clients wanting to ditch foundation altogether.

## **DOES SEMI-PERMANENT FOUNDATION ACTUALLY WORK?**

Results vary, but many people see brighter, more even skin immediately after their sessions, with full effects visible after a few days. The pigments subtly tint the skin, blurring imperfections and reducing redness. The number of sessions needed may vary depending on the desired level of coverage and effect.

But it's not magic.

“If your expectations are realistic—like wanting a more consistent skin tone or slight radiance—it can deliver,” says Dr. A.M.. “But if you're expecting it to replace your full-coverage makeup routine, you might be disappointed.”
Multiple sessions are often recommended to achieve the best results.

## **IS SEMI-PERMANENT FOUNDATION SAFE?** 

Here’s where it gets controversial.

Dr. A.M. warns that despite the glowing Instagram reels and influencer endorsements, the treatment isn’t without risk.

“The main concern is what’s being microneedled into the skin. Many of the serums used aren’t FDA-approved as tattoo pigments. Some even contain colourants banned in other industries, like food or cosmetics. There’s also the risk of allergic reactions and pigment migration,” they say.

Dr. Kennedy echoes this caution stating “while microneedling itself is a well-researched and widely adopted technique for treating concerns like acne scars, fine lines, and collagen stimulation, the addition of pigment infusion through the same method introduces new layers of complexity. Anytime you introduce foreign substances—such as pigment—into the dermal layers, there are added risks, including allergic reactions, uneven absorption, and long-term discoloration. These treatments should only be performed by highly trained professionals using medically safe, regulated products.”

Dr. A.M. adds “There’s a lack of long-term studies on how these pigments behave in the skin over time,” they said. “We also see uneven fading, especially if clients don't follow post-treatment protocols properly or have high sun exposure. These patients often consult us seeking solutions to treat underlying dullness, pigmentation concerns, or uneven texture as opposed to continuing down the route of camouflaging these issues in the long term.”

Before opting for a semi-permanent foundation, it’s crucial to consider your skin’s health and how the treatment may impact its overall well-being.
That said, thousands of people undergo the treatment without issue. But it’s not something you should trust to just anyone with a dermapen and a pretty Instagram grid.

## **CUSTOM-TAILORED GLOW: WHY PERSONLIZATION AND PRACTITIONER EXPERTISE MATTER**

When it comes to achieving that coveted glow, there’s no one-size-fits-all approach. Glow semi-permanent foundation options are as diverse as the skin types and concerns they’re designed to address and customization is key. Many clinics offer tailored foundation options, adjusting the pigment blend and active ingredients to suit your unique skin type, whether you’re dealing with dark spots, large pores, or simply want to enhance your natural glow. Some clients opt for combination treatments, pairing semi-permanent foundation with other cosmetic procedures like chemical peels or microneedling to maximize results and address multiple concerns in one session.

No matter which option you choose, working with a qualified practitioner is a must. “The administration of semi-permanent foundation is not a one-size-fits-all procedure, and qualifications to perform it should reflect the complexity of the technique,” explains Dr. Kennedy. “While licensed aestheticians or permanent makeup artists may be permitted to perform the treatment in some regions, it’s critical that they have specialized training in both microneedling and pigment infusion. Because this procedure involves introducing foreign substances into the skin—often reaching the dermal layer—there’s potential for complications like infection, allergic reactions, or long-term pigment changes if not done properly. Ideally, these treatments should be performed by, or under the supervision of, licensed medical professionals who understand skin anatomy, aseptic technique, and pigment safety. Regulatory standards vary by location, but patient safety should never be compromised for cosmetic results.”

## **HOW LONG DO SEMI-PERMANENT RESULTS LAST?** 
Most semi-permanent foundation treatments last between 2 to 4 months, though some report effects fading sooner—especially in those with oily or fast-renewing skin types. The pigment does not wash off with regular cleansing, swimming, or sweating, which helps the treatment remain long-lasting.
Contouring results are often subtler and fade quicker.

**Factors that affect longevity include:**
- Skin type, and oil production more specifically, sun exposure
- Skincare routine (especially exfoliating products)
- Smoking and lifestyle habits

Maintenance treatments every four-to-six weeks are usually recommended if you want to keep that fresh-faced effect year-round.

## **WHO SHOULD (AND SHOULDN'T) GET SEMI-PERMINNENT FOUNDATION?**

**Best Candidates:**
- Those with uneven skin tone, redness, or dullness
- People who prefer a “no-makeup” makeup look
- Patients looking for temporary skin enhancement without invasive procedures

**Not Ideal For:**
- People with active acne, eczema, psoriasis, or rosacea
- Anyone pregnant or breastfeeding
- Patients with a history of keloid scarring or hyperpigmentation
- Those allergic to cosmetic pigments or prone to skin sensitivities

“Even if you’re in the ideal candidate pool, always request a patch test,” says Dr. A.M.. “Reactions can happen even with ‘natural’ ingredients.”

## **THE TREATMENT PROCESS: WHAT TO EXPECT**

**Session Breakdown:**
- Consultation – Skin assessment and medical history review.
- Cleansing & Skin Prep – Skin is thoroughly cleansed and prepped with numbing cream if needed.
- Pigment Infusion – A microneedling pen deposits tinted serum into the epidermis.
- Post-Care – A soothing mask is applied, and patients receive detailed aftercare instructions.

## **HOW MANY SESSIONS ARE NEEDED?**

Most clients require 2 to 3 sessions spaced 2 to 4 weeks apart to see optimal, buildable results. Many clinics offer package pricing to encourage clients to complete the series. After the initial results are achieved, patients will usually need top-up treatments once a month or once every six weeks. 

## **PRE- AND POST-TREATMENT TIPS**

**Before:**
- Avoid alcohol, caffeine, and blood thinners 24 hours prior
- Stop using retinol, acids, and exfoliants a week before
- No sunbathing or tanning beds

**After:**
- No makeup for at least 5-7 days
- Skip workouts, saunas, and swimming for 48-72 hours
- Use only gentle, hydrating skincare
- Wear SPF daily—this is non-negotiable

“Post-care is make-or-break for this treatment,” warns Dr. A.M. “Skipping sunscreen is the fastest way to undo your results, and trigger hyperpigmentation.”

## **CAN YOU STILL WEAR MAKEUP?**

Yes, but not right away. Most providers recommend avoiding makeup for at least one week post-treatment to avoid irritating the skin or introducing bacteria into open micro-channels.

After that, makeup can be worn as usual, though you may find yourself reaching for it less.

## **REAL TALK: A DEVOTEE'S POV** 

Emma*, 29, started semi-permanent foundation a year ago and now books regular touch-ups like clockwork.

“I’ve always had red patches and uneven tone. BB Glow was honestly life-changing. My skin looks filtered—like, all the time. I don’t even wear foundation anymore unless I’m going out-out.”

While Emma is all-in, she acknowledges it’s not for everyone.

“You have to commit to aftercare. I once skipped sunscreen after a beach weekend and the pigment faded unevenly. Lesson learned.”

## **ARE THERE SAFER ALTERNATIVES?** 

If the idea of pigment microneedling gives you pause, here are some lower-commitment options:

- Skin tints & BB creams – Customisable, makeup-grade alternatives
- Microneedling (sans pigment) – Stimulates collagen and improves skin texture naturally
- Laser facials or chemical peels – For treating pigmentation, texture, and dullness
- Hydrafacials – For immediate glow which ideal ahead of a special event, for example 

## **FINAL VERDICT** 

Semi-permanent foundation and contouring are not without their wow factor—but they also come with caveats. The treatment’s popularity is growing fast, but expert opinions remain divided.

If you’re curious, start with a consultation at a trusted medical-grade clinic. Check pigment ingredients. Ask about patch testing. And don’t skip SPF—ever.

“Flawless skin is always in, but safety should always come first,” says Dr. A.M.

*not her real name


Expert Opinion

Curious about semi-permanent foundation and contouring? Learn how it works, safety considerations, how many sessions you’ll need, benefits, and expert tips for the best results in this complete guide.

Semi-Permanent Foundation & Contouring: Benefits, Safety, Sessions & Tips

Everything You Need to Know About Semi-Permanent Foundation & Contouring

jessica-felicio-lH973Qz0Iy4-unsplash

When it comes to establishing a skincare routine, there are always several factors to consider. For starters, there are certain ‘core’ steps that serve as the foundation of any regimen. Those include [cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting](https://aedit.com/aedition/skinimalism-skincare-trend) (in the form of sunscreen). From there, the sky's the limit, and there are a host of product types and ingredients that can be added to address specific concerns.

In the case of melanated skin, some of the most common skin concerns stem from and revolve around inflammation, dehydration, and [pigmentation](https://aedit.com/concern/uneven-skin-tone). With that in mind, there has been an ever-growing crop of beauty brands coming to the market in the last couple of years specifically formulated for skin of color. Here, a breakdown of the unique needs of melanin-rich skin and how these skincare lines are catering to them. 

## **Caring For Melanin-Rich Skin**
Melanin is the naturally-occurring pigment that gives the skin its color. Skin tones differ based on melanin density within skin cells. “Darker skin has more melanocytes, which make the melanin that gives the skin a darker color,” says [Angela Lamb, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/angela-lamb-md-34643), a board certified dermatologist in New York City. 

If you are familiar with the [Fitzpatrick skin type scale](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-fitzpatrick-skin-types), types IV, V, and VI are considered skin of color. This skin is olive (type IV) to very dark brown/black (type VI) in tone, rarely (if ever) burns, and tans easily. For BIPOCs, melanin does provide natural protection from the sun (about eight to 13 intrinsic SPF) – [though it is not enough to replace sunscreen](https://aedit.com/aedition/bipoc-skin-cancer-awareness). Additionally, the sun’s damaging UV rays are the number one cause of pigmentation, which darker skin tones are already at an increased risk of due increased melanocyte activity. Melanin-producing triggers, like inflammation, hormones, irritants, and, yes, the sun, cause an uptick in its production, which essentially leaves the skin uneven in tone due to [unwanted pigmentation](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-hyperpigmentation-dark-spots-melasma).

Melanated skin is also thicker and, as a result, demands high doses of moisture to stay properly hydrated. Its stratum corneum contains four more layers than lighter skin types, making it harder for that much-needed moisture to remain locked in. Furthermore, to self-protect, melanin-rich skin often produces an excess of sebum. Although oil can help mitigate signs of aging (think: lines and wrinkles), it can also lead to [enlarged pores](https://aedit.com/aedition/at-home-treatments-for-clogged-pores), pimples, congestion, and a lengthier cell renewal process. These needs and more are now commonly addressed in skincare products and brands that pinpoint melanin-rich skin types.

As it relates to [acne](https://aedit.com/concern/acne), it’s not just the active breakout phase that needs to be considered. In melanin-rich skin, “often, the acne resolves, but the skin has post-inflammatory changes afterward,” Dr. Lamb explains. To avoid or at least minimize [post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-treat-acne-induced-post-inflammatory-hyperpigmentation), “it's important to make sure that you treat the acne a bit more aggressively from the pigmentation standpoint,” she adds. Her picks? Ingredients like [azelaic](https://aedit.com/aedition/benefits-of-azelaic-acid-in-skincare), mandelic, and [kojic](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-kojic-acid-in-skincare) acids.

## **The Best Skincare Brands for Melanated Skin**
Skincare basics like cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreen, are ubiquitously compatible with all skin tones, but skin tone (and its corresponding concerns) takes a front seat when it comes to achieving noticeable results with heavy-hitting ingredients, like those that fight acne, limit inflammation and pigmentation, and hydrate. Dr. Lamb says many products targeted towards melanin-rich skin tend to take pigmentation changes into account and bring skin-evening ingredients to the forefront. Below are some of the best brands created for melanated skin.

### **For Brighter Skin Without Unnecessary Waste**: 456 Skin
![456](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/6A84fbPm6wGZ1kNFY7Ztw5/c248bd43068aa13c040ae69e33fc44a6/456.png)
With a deep understanding of the needs and functionality of melanin-rich skin, 4.5.6. Skin was developed to bridge the gap between innovation and effective skincare. The products are committed to enhancing skin health while simultaneously working hard to preserve the planet via made-to-order SKUs and glass packaging that reduce environmental waste. Specialized biodynamic actives and customized formulas use high-tech vectors and transportation, allowing the ingredients to penetrate melanin-rich skin best and encourage cell turnover for brighter, more radiant skin in those with Fitzpatrick skin types IV, V, and IV. The result? Healthy, hydrated, and happy skin. *[456skin.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fusd.456skin.com%2F)* 

### **Rooted in Science, Empowered by Community**: MELÉ
![Mele](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/5zAfQwqAn0NmS6MbbBoFhL/07656308ace845a268f8e7527d9e7743/Mele.png)
Dermatologists know a thing or two about melanated skin, which is why the founders behind MELÉ teamed up with three doctors of color and a team of Unilever scientists to develop a melanin-rich community of experts that's complementary to the products. Based on skin concerns, needs, sensory, and optical requirements for skin problems like sun damage, uneven tone, and dark spots, the collection doesn't position melanin-rich skin as an afterthought but rather a priority. The two star products of the line comprise the Enhance collection, which target the core concerns of melanated skin. [Smooth Pore Minimizing Serum](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.meleskincare.com%2Fus%2Fen%2Fproducts%2Fenhance%2Fsmooth-pore-minimizing-serum.html) calls upon tripeptides and rosehip extract to improve the look of skin texture while toning down the appearance of enlarged pores, and [Even Dark Spot Control Serum](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.meleskincare.com%2Fus%2Fen%2Fproducts%2Fenhance%2Feven-dark-spot-control-serum.html) harnesses the power of niacinamide, retinol, and hexylresorcinol to reduce the appearance of dark spots. *[meleskincare.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.meleskincare.com%2Fus%2Fen)* 

### **For Practicing Safe Sun Sans Residue**: Unsun
![Unsun](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/37B7MBjhJPFj18ALGB25fr/06325054d92ffe6fe446fe112b0dba18/Unsun.png)
Daily use of sunscreen is a given. But, when said SPF leaves behind an unwanted white cast on the skin, consumers – especially those with darker skin – are less likely to use it every day. Rather than settle for what was on the market, Unsun founder Katonya Breaux took matters into her own hands and created a non-chemical, no-residue formula that is compatible with all skin tones. The zinc-based, mineral-tinted sunscreens come in various shades and luminosities for that perfect match. *[unsuncosmetics.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.unsuncosmetics.com%2F)*

### **The Plant-Based Skincare Line**: Plantkos
![Plantkos](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/5aFJwEuWI5jzAnTiTv4gqx/88d00868d076bfc2a166363e795900ab/Plantkos.png)
Founded by a pharmacist who sought to marry Eastern plant-based medicine and Western clean science, the botanical-infused formulas work on each layer of the skin to safely and delicately address the unique biological makeup of melanated skin and the most common concerns it faces (i.e. dehydration, inflammation, and pigmentation). The brand's proprietary Phytomedicinal Complex contains a blend of Ayurvedic herbs plus clean, active ingredients — like acids and enzymes — to create healthier, more evenly toned skin. We’re such fans, we [hosted an Instagram Live](https://www.instagram.com/tv/CXbg4IVKG1l/) with founder Sejal Patel, PharmD, last month to learn more. *[plantkosskincare.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fplantkosskincare.com%2F)* 

### **The Hero Product**: Eadam
![Eadem](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/7z48ahhPW3XniZcLNEpR5C/6c938a0480235e1360ddd03fd37f2970/Eadem.png)
Yes, it's possible to launch a breakthrough beauty brand with a stand-alone product, and that's just what EADAM did. Made by women of color chemists and tested on a range of darker skin tones, the three-in-one [Milk Marvel Dark Spot Serum](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Feadem.co%2Fproducts%2Fmilk-marvel) is about as comprehensive as it gets. Rather than ‘lighten’ the skin to fade pigmentation, refine pores, and resurface, the formula preserves natural tone. A mix of clean ingredients, including niacinamide, ascorbic acid, fruit-based enzymes, and time-tested botanicals, safely erase discoloration without hydroquinone or bleaching agents. The brand's end goal is to encourage women to feel at home in their skin. *[eadem.co](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Feadem.co%2F)* 

### **A Focus on Sun Damage**: KINLÒ
![Kinlo](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/5aIWh1fpEdeaTyZcveffjx/16b3ed53b0c8c0bf07b5087e0fc8f940/Kinlo.png)
Naomi Osaka, the tennis superstar and mastermind behind vegan brand KINLÒ, is on a mission to educate the public of the effects of sun damage on melanin-rich skin. For years, the thought was that darker skin tones didn’t need to protect their skin from the sun since it rarely burns. Yet, the Grand Slam champ and activist has created a results-oriented line of skincare products formulated specifically for those with melanated skin while dispelling the age-old myth. Each of the sustainably sourced products — the lineup includes sunscreen, hydrating mists, and lip balms, amongst others — are formulated with clean ingredients, including marine algae, green tea, squalene, and aloe vera, and work to protect, prevent, and rejuvenate darker skin tones. In addition, both blue light and ultraviolet protection limits the incidence of inflammation that contributes to melasma and other pigment-related conditions. *[kinlo.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kinlo.com%2F)* 

### **The Dermatologist-Developed Line**: ROSE Ingleton MD Skincare
![RoseMD](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/1gA9etkzSV0fCU1Hrqbzfm/33c3e03f64a2c40f9626b479da0c2e77/RoseMD.png)
Celebrity dermatologist Rose Ingleton, MD, believes in the power of natural yet potent superfruits to enhance the beauty of melanin-rich skin. So, the Jamaica native incorporates a bevy of powerhouse fruits into her formulations, including bilberry, orange, lemon, sugar maple, and more. She calls the concentrated extracts (plus hyaluronic acid) the Jamaican SuperFruit Blend, which works to achieve younger, healthier, more radiant-looking skin by addressing blemishes, dryness, and discoloration. *[rosemdskin.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.rosemdskin.com%2F)* 

### **A Glow-Getting Serum**: Hyper
![Hyper](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/39n0IoQCvIORWd7kc2eu9y/5ae915608f1e3f5aa04e2120cd600760/Hyper.png)
Counting vitamin C as its hero ingredient, the hardworking [Hyper Even Brightening Dark Spot Vitamin C Serum](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fgethyperskin.com%2Fcollections%2Fall%2Fproducts%2Fbrightening-dark-spot-vitamin-c-serum) is the cornerstone of the Hyper brand. Created for black and brown skin (though safe and effective for all skin tones), the complexion-enhancer relies on anti-inflammatory ingredients like salicylic acid and turmeric to keep breakouts at bay while erasing unwanted acne scars and sun damage with kojic acid, bearberry, and licorice extract. Safely potent concentrations of these actives render the formulation ideal for clearer, glowier skin. *[gethyperskin.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fgethyperskin.com%2F)*

### **Skin-Specific Makeup**: Ami Colé
![AmiCole](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/1sVLCFiFevV8UCZd5mRi0q/319661de010730fba39304ede2c1bb66/AmiCole.png)
Clean makeup made for melanin-rich skin? Check. Formulated sans endocrine disruptors ([research from the EWG](https://www.ewg.org/news-insights/news/study-women-color-exposed-more-toxic-chemicals-personal-care-products#:~:text=News%20%26%20Insights-,Study%3A%20Women%20of%20Color%20Exposed%20to%20More%20Toxic%20Chemicals%20in,according%20to%20a%20new%20study.) shows that women of color are exposed to more harmful and toxic chemicals than other groups), this tightly curated line features a skin-enhancing tint, lip treatment oil, mascara, and highlighter stick. The pigmented products provide plenty of payoff while keeping skin health and overall health top of mind. *[amicole.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amicole.com%2F)*

### **The OG**: Urban Skin Rx
![UrbanSkinRx](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/5G8tvShzT7zXwniUxCy1l9/7af16b5b98aa1fcf7d1d4826e1a1cfaf/UrbanSkinRx.png)
Founder Rachel Roff was one of the first to launch a brand specifically for melanin-rich back in 2010. A trained medical aesthetician, Roff set out to change how the industry treated darker skin tones by first creating a top med spa and laser center with those customers in mind and then launching Urban Skin Rx. The clinical skincare line incorporates effective ingredients with supercharged formulations to improve hyperpigmentation and dark spots, rough texture, dryness, acne, and signs of aging. *[urbanskinrx.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Furbanskinrx.com%2F)*

### **Made for Men**: H.I.M-istry Naturals
![Himistry](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/2GvZqwBlJRUbA5S7wSKTqR/1c438fcb8d2511f70f6449f72cc20258/Himistry.png)
Fellas, we didn’t forget about you! An organic line of men's grooming products, this just-for-guys brand focuses on melanin-rich skin issues – including acne, dryness, shaving irritation, and ingrown hairs. The simple regimen caters to the skin, beard, body, and shaving needs of men with darker skin while integrating healthy skin principles, too. *[himistry.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fhimistry.com%2F)*

### **Steeped in Quality, Not Price**: AMBI
![Ambi](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/UkIgew1yVjbQtQsqq6Jvw/8b65ec17b7f18daa4a790ba6872d5f14/Ambi.png)
Affordable luxury is the name of the game for AMBI. Deemed scientifically proven to support skin of color, the 50-plus-year-old brand blends science with nature at a wallet-friendly price point. The newest addition to the line is the Even and Clear Facial Cleanser Collection. The trio of cleansers feature a sweet potato-infused complex that employs antioxidants and vitamins to promote evenly toned, glowing skin without hydroquinone. *[ambi.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fambi.com%2F)* 

*All products featured are independently selected by our editors, however, AEDIT may receive a commission on items purchased through our links.*


Beauty

Because skincare is not one-size-fits-all.

Best Skincare Brands For Melanin-Rich Skin

The 12 Best Skincare Brands Formulated For Melanin-Rich Skin

rune-enstad-cowLgyb63c4-unsplash

There isn’t a universal standard for getting rid of unwanted hair just yet, so here is how to determine which treatment is best for you.

Best Hair Removal Treatments For Every Skin Tone: Waxing, Treading, Lasers, Electolysis

The Best Hair Removal Treatments For Every Skin Tone

jennifer-marquez-HvkDYluePqw-unsplash

May is [Skin Cancer Awareness Month](https://aedit.com/aedition/category/skin-cancer), which is an annual opportunity to educate the public on how to prevent and treat skin cancer (i.e. the [most common type of cancer](https://www.aad.org/media/stats-skin-cancer) in the United States). Unfortunately, much of this education is centered on those with lighter skin tones, leaving people with darker skin [out of the conversation](https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC5454668/). 

It’s a symbiotic system: many BIPOC are not aware of their risk for skin cancer, while many medical professionals and medical journals do not adequately enlighten people of color about [at-home screenings](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-conduct-at-home-self-examination-skin-cancer-screenings), [annual skin checks with a dermatologist](https://aedit.com/aedition/dermatologist-skin-cancer-screenings-mole-checks), or even what skin cancer can look like on darker skin. The result? A dangerous lack of knowledge on both ends of the spectrum. 

And while it is true that people with lighter skin — types I, II, and III on the [Fitzpatrick scale](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-fitzpatrick-skin-types) — are at a higher risk of developing skin cancer than types IV, V, and VI, people with darker skin have a higher risk of being diagnosed with skin cancer at a later stage. At that point, the cancer is often more aggressive and survival rates are lower.

The good news is that there are many things that can be done to prevent skin cancer. Here, two top dermatologists share what BIPOCs need to know about protecting themselves.

## **Skin Cancer 101**
Skin cancer is the out-of-control growth of abnormal cells in the epidermis (read: the outermost layer of the skin). [According to the Skin Cancer Foundation](https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/skin-cancer-facts/), skin cancer is usually caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun or UV exposure in indoor tanning beds. The three most common types of skin cancer are: 

- **Basal Cell Carcinoma (BCC)**: The most common skin cancer in the United States, BCC usually develops after years of sun exposure.
- **Squamous Cell Carcinoma (SCC)**: The second most common skin cancer, SCC can grow deep into the skin and cause disfigurement.
- **Melanoma**: The most dangerous form of skin cancer due to its ability to spread, the vast majority of melanomas are caused by the sun.

Basal cell carcinomas — specifically on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet — are most prevalent for BIPOCs, confirms [Angela Lamb, MD](https://angelalambmd.com/), a board certified dermatologist and director of the Westside Mount Sinai Dermatology Faculty Practice in New York City. But that’s not to say melanoma isn’t also a concern. 

As [Onyeka Obioha, MD](https://www.instagram.com/dr.obioha/?hl=en), a Los Angeles-based board certified dermatologist and skincare advisor at [Glory Skincare](https://gloryskincare.com/), explains, melanoma forms from melanocytes (i.e. the skin cells that produce melanin pigment). While melanomas can be found anywhere on the body, people of color have higher rates of acral lentiginous melanoma (ALM), or melanoma of the palms, soles, and nailbeds.

## **Skin Cancer Prevention**
No matter your skin color, lessening your risk of skin cancer involves three main factors:

1. Daily sunscreen use
2. Regular at-home skin checks
3. Consistent visits to a dermatologist

Below is what you need to know about each prevention method:

### **1. Sunscreen** 
While melanin does provide natural protection from the sun (about eight to 13 intrinsic SPF, Dr. Lamb says), it’s not enough to fully protect you from damaging UV rays. Sunscreen needs to be [applied everyday](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-apply-sunscreen-and-not-miss-a-spot) — rain or shine, winter or summer — and you need to make sure it has a high enough sun protection factor (SPF) to actually make a difference. 

[Like the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD)](https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/sun-protection/sunscreen-patients/sunscreen-faqs), Dr. Lamb recommends at least SPF 30 for daily use and SPF 50 for times when you will be directly in the sun. “Make sure it says ‘broad spectrum’ and make sure it feels good on your skin,” she emphasizes. “The most important thing is something that you will actually wear.” While the sunscreens of yore were often greasy, uncomfortable, and gave darker skin people that dreaded white cast, many of the sunscreens on the market today are the complete opposite. 

There is some debate over [chemical versus physical (mineral) sunscreens](https://aedit.com/aedition/difference-between-chemical-sunscreen-physical-mineral-sunscreen), and Dr. Obioha personally prefers mineral formulas. “Mineral sunscreens that contain zinc oxide or titanium dioxide will provide the best protection,” she says. “I prefer mineral sunscreens because they do not contain any harmful chemicals that can be found in other forms of sunscreen.” 

Additionally, your behavior can also help reduce your risk of skin cancer. During summer months, try to stay out of the sun during peak times (10 a.m. to 4 p.m.), wear a hat and sunglasses when in direct sunlight, and reapply your sunscreen every two hours or after getting wet.

### **2. At-Home Skin Checks**
Monthly self-exams are important because, unlike most cancers, you can actually see skin cancer developing. Understanding the so-called [ABCDEs of melanoma](https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/melanoma/melanoma-warning-signs-and-images/#abcde) (asymmetry, border, color, diameter, and evolving) can help you with your checks, and you can also check out our guide to [at-home skin cancer screenings](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-conduct-at-home-self-examination-skin-cancer-screenings).

While you should look at your entire body, people with darker skin need to pay extra attention to certain areas. “Skin cancer can develop on any part of the skin, [but] skin cancers on sun-protected sites occur more frequently in BIPOC as compared to in lighter skin types,” Dr. Obioha explains. These site include the:

- Scalp
- Eyes
- Mucous membranes (such as your mouth, genitalia, perianal skin)
- Nails

Unfortunately, most photos of skin cancer are of people with lighter skin, which leaves many BIPOC people confused on what to look for. Many skin cancers appear pigmented and brown on darker skin, while lighter skin sees cancer that looks pearly and pink, Dr. Obioha notes. Her advice? “Always remain aware of any changing, non-healing, or bleeding lesions, and look out for dark lines around and underneath the nails,” she shares. “When doing a skin cancer check at home, look at every aspect of your body, including the nails, mouth, palms, and soles of your feet.”

There are some online resources, including the [American Society for Dermatologic Surgery](https://www.asds.net/skin-experts/skin-cancer/skin-cancer-in-people-of-color/skin-cancer-photo-gallery) and the [American Academy of Dermatology](https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/skin-cancer/types/common/melanoma/skin-color), that have photos of Black, Latinx, and Asian people with skin cancer. When in doubt, it’s best to see your dermatologist for a proper examination, which leads us to...

### **3. Visits to Your Dermatologist**
While visiting the dermatologist is often seen as an ‘extra’ or something only acne-stricken teens do, it’s important to set up a regular (read: at least annual) [appointment with your derm](https://aedit.com/aedition/dermatologist-skin-cancer-screenings-mole-checks). While there, you can show your provider any spots, bumps, or moles that you’re concerned about. If they feel that the area needs more attention, they can remove it and send the sample for a biopsy. 

If you are diagnosed with skin cancer, treatment is usually straightforward — especially when it’s caught early. As Dr. Lamb explains, most skin cancers are removed via excision. Though rare, more serious types may require chemotherapy and radiation. If your treatment leaves a scar, you can consult your dermatologist or a plastic surgeon on [how to minimize its appearance](https://aedit.com/aedition/minimizing-scars-after-surgery).

Since early detection is key, it’s important to keep your annual checkup even if you don’t think you have any problem spots. The Skin Cancer Foundation [reports](https://www.skincancer.org/skin-cancer-information/skin-cancer-facts/) that late-stage melanoma diagnoses are more prevalent among Hispanic and Black people than non-Hispanic white people, so it’s always better to get a second opinion. Plus, you can also use that time to talk about other skin concerns you may have or treatments you’re interested in.

## **A Note on Vitamin D**
Vitamin D is known for boosting bone strength and for assisting with the absorption of calcium, and it’s sometimes called the ‘sunshine vitamin’ because one of the easiest ways to get it is to bask in the sunlight. It is true that BIPOC may see their levels of vitamin D dip at certain times of the year due to their intrinsic protection from the sun, sunscreen usage, and extra layers of clothes. 

[One study found](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16549493/) that most young and otherwise healthy Black people do not achieve appropriate levels of vitamin D at any time of the year. [Another determined](https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21310306/) that, while about 42 percent of the U.S. population is vitamin D deficient, the rate rises to 70 percent in the Latinx population and 82 percent in the Black community. A vitamin D deficiency can present as fatigue, muscle weakness, and, in severe cases, thin, brittle, or misshapen bones.

This is not to say, however, you should skimp on sun protection. You can get vitamin D from your diet, and [vitamin D-rich foods](https://aedit.com/aedition/best-diet-for-healthy-beautiful-skin) include salmon, tuna, egg yolks, mushrooms, and fortified foods like cereal, orange juice, and soy milk. Additionally, there are a number of vitamin D [supplements](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-dietary-supplements-can-benefit-the-skin) on the market, but you should speak with your doctor before adding them to your routine. Your provider may recommend a blood test to check your vitamin D levels prior to starting a regimen. 

## **Notable Sunscreens for BIPOCs**
As we mentioned, sunscreen has come a long way since the greasy formulas of yesteryear that left the skin looking chalky. Below are six expert- and editor-approved formulas that meet the AAD and Dr. Lamb’s recommendation of being broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher.

### **Black Girl Sunscreen SPF 30**
![AEDIT-BlackGirlSunscreen](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/3DBpFXjD4yG4TuZ7yMbWrC/06ceb50836bf324d2c9dc0a9effd7f79/AEDIT-BlackGirlSunscreen.png)
Created by a Black woman who was tired of buying sunscreens that didn’t properly care for melanated skin, this oxybenzone- and octinoxate-free sunscreen dries clear and has nourishing extras like avocado, jojoba, and sunflower oils. $19, [blackgirlsunscreen.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.blackgirlsunscreen.com%2Fproduct%2Fblack-girl-sunscreen-spf-30%2F) 

### **Fenty Skin Hydra Vizor Invisible Moisturizer Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Sunscreen**
![AEDIT-FentySkin](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/6Exsjt7IEd2nyZFYIANhzW/ffd19da642c85f3b4b8555f025e96a1a/AEDIT-FentySkin.png)
This moisturizer-sunscreen combo is refillable, makeup-friendly, and will hydrate your skin as much as it protects it from the sun. Oh, and if you want to wear it alone, it has a radiant finish. $35, [sephora.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fproduct%2Ffenty-skin-hydra-vizor-moisturizer-broad-spectrum-spf-30-sunscreen-P467249)

### **Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen SPF 40 PA+++**
![AEDIT-Supergoop](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/2LwF5CrHddJfCn3VAIuMzV/fe8684f1a5374e4fe40b2764fa00b540/AEDIT-Supergoop.png)
How do we know we’re in the future? We now have clear (yes, clear!) sunscreen. There is absolutely no risk of white cast here, and, if you wear makeup, this sunscreen will double as a primer. $34, [sephora.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fproduct%2Fsupergoop-unseen-sunscreen-spf-40-P454380) 

### **EltaMD UV Clear Broad-Spectrum SPF 46**
![AEDIT-EltaMD](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/6rLeziU50R8HaYhL9IBxGc/4b6e9c08f8893018b1c1d86de182a4a6/AEDIT-EltaMD.png)
This fragrance- and oil-free formulation is perfect for those with acne, rosacea, or sensitive skin. The transparent hybrid formula (it contains both zinc oxide and octinoxate) also includes sodium hyaluronate to moisturize and lactic acid to reduce shine. $37, [dermstore.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.dermstore.com%2Fproduct_UV%2BClear%2BBroadSpectrum%2BSPF%2B46_20567.htm) 

### **Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare All-Physical Lightweight Wrinkle Defense Broad Spectrum Sunscreen SPF 30**
![AEDIT-DennisGross](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/tImxLteobtxnxKJWQIoR0/eca469e66fd4a0051942397ac8d5faa1/AEDIT-DennisGross.png)
This all-mineral sunscreen is powered by zinc oxide, and it’s also vegan, reef-safe, and comes in recyclable packaging. Insider tip: While slightly annoying, the key to using mineral sunscreens and avoiding a white cast is to rub it in completely and give it time to absorb before applying your makeup. $42, [sephora.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sephora.com%2Fproduct%2Fdr-dennis-gross-skincare-all-physical-lightweight-wrinkle-defense-broad-spectrum-suncreen-spf-30-P470023) 

### **Neutrogena Hydro Boost Water Gel Lotion Sunscreen SPF 50**
![AEDIT-Neutrogena](//images.ctfassets.net/zw35sfestf1t/7K20jmPhgsCEB0cXlL515a/631b06b832b189c49a04378e12e64696/AEDIT-Neutrogena.png)
Summertime sun and sand can make dehydrated skin even drier and more irritated. This lightweight broad-spectrum gel formula is both soothing and hydrating (thanks to hyaluronic acid), and it has an invisible finish. $16, [ulta.com](https://go.skimresources.com?id=170670X1638612&xs=1&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ulta.com%2Fhydro-boost-water-gel-lotion-sunscreen-spf-50%3FproductId%3DxlsImpprod17761901) 

*All products featured are independently selected by our editors, however, AEDIT may receive a commission on items purchased through our links.*

Wellness

While skin cancer is not as common for people with darker skin, BIPOCs often experience more aggressive cases and lower survival rates due to late diagnoses. Here’s how to protect yourself.

Guide To Skin Cancer Prevention And Treatment For BIPOC

Why Skin Cancer Awareness Needs To Include People Of Color

gemma-chua-tran-Z-O5kbDjXFM-unsplash

From laser skin treatments to laser hair removal, tone matters — skin tone, that is. Laser therapy procedures are not one size fits all and the wrong treatment can cause lasting damage. So, how can you tell which laser treatments are right for [darker skin tones](https://aedit.com/aedition/the-best-skin-treatments-for-dark-complexions)? Here, we caught up with top dermatologists and an aesthetic nurse to find out why skin tone affects the outcome of certain laser procedures and the best [skin refining](https://aedit.com/aedition/ultimate-guide-to-skin-resurfacing-procedures) and [hair removal](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-use-at-home-laser-hair-removal-devices) laser options for those with darker complexions. 

## **The Relationship Between Lasers & Skin Tone**
Not all laser and light therapies are safe for all skin tones. Generally speaking, those who fall above type IV on the [Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-fitzpatrick-skin-types) scale (the go-to measure of skin type for dermatologists) need to be careful when choosing a treatment. For the uninitiated, the Fitzpatrick scale was developed in 1975 by Harvard dermatologist Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, to classify a person’s tendency to burn (erythema) versus tan (induce pigmentation) — providing an estimation of the amount of melanin present in skin cells. The original scale had four types and was later broadened to six. 

The best way to determine your Fitzpatrick skin type is to visit your dermatologist, but below are the general classifications for each: 

- **Type I**: Pale skin; light blue or green eyes; red or blonde hair; always burns, never tans
- **Type II**: Fair skin; blue or green eyes; blonde hair; burns easily, tans poorly
- **Type III**: Light brown to olive skin; hazel or light brown eyes; dark blonde or light brown hair; burns mildly, tans gradually
- **Type IV**: Olive to brown skin; dark brown eyes; dark brown hair; burns minimally, tans easily 
- **Type V**: Dark brown skin; dark brown to black eyes; dark brown to black hair; tans easily, rarely burns
- **Type VI**: Dark brown or black skin; dark brown to black eyes; black hair; never burns, tans easily 

Aesthetic lasers target water, red hemoglobin, or brown melanin in the skin. Skin types IV to VI have a higher concentration of melanin, which means there is a greater risk of damage if the laser is used incorrectly. “Patients with darker skin tones and who are tan are more susceptible to complications, which is why it’s essential to see a board certified laser expert and someone with many different tools in their kit,” says [Paul Jarrod Frank, MD](https://pfrankmd.com/), a board certified dermatologist in New York City. The damage caused by improper laser treatments is often permanent and ranges from [burns](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-treat-first-second-third-degree-burns) and [scars](https://aedit.com/aedition/minimizing-scars-after-surgery) to hypo- and hyperpigmentation. 

But that’s not to say there aren’t cosmetic laser therapies that can safely be employed on a wide range of skin tones. When performed by a well-trained professional, there is an array of skin refining and hair removal treatment options. To ensure you’re visiting a provider with the right level of experience, Dr. Frank recommends [asking the following questions](https://aedit.com/aedition/questions-to-ask-your-doctor-during-plastic-surgery-consultation): 

1. Do you have more than one technology in your office to treat the various skin types?
2. Do you have experience with treating people with my skin type?

“Those are the two most important questions you can ask,” he says. And don’t be shy about asking to see before and after photos of patients who look like you — it can help you get a sense of how much experience the provider has. 

## **The Best Laser Treatments for Darker Skin**
Now that you have a better understanding of the relationship between skin tone and lasers, it’s time to learn more about which treatments are safe and effective. When it comes to refining skin tone and texture, [non-ablative](https://aedit.com/procedure/nonablative-laser-skin-resurfacing) (read: non-wounding), picosecond, and Q-switched lasers are the way to go for darker complexions and there have been some notable technological advances in the last decade. “The skin stays intact, so patients can use makeup during recovery and they can be used on darker skin types,” Dr. Frank says. 

### **Non-Ablative Lasers**
- Clear + Brilliant®
- Fraxel® Dual 
- Lutronic Ultra™

### **Picosecond Lasers**
- Enlighten®
- Pico Genesis™ 
- PicoSure®
- PicoWay®

Generally speaking, Dr. Frank says longer wavelength technologies tend to be safest for darker skin tones. Tara Garrick, nurse and aesthetic laser specialist at [Neinstein Plastic Surgery](https://neinsteinplasticsurgery.com/) in NYC, likes the Lutronic Ultra™ because the non-ablative, thulium laser works deeper in the skin without damaging the surface layer. “It’s a customizable, comfortable laser with minimal downtime,” Garrick says. It can for address fine lines and wrinkles, melasma, [hyperpigmentation](https://aedit.com/aedition/what-its-like-to-treat-hyperpigmentation-with-skincare-cosmetic-treatments), acne and body scars, large pores, actinic keratosis, even [stretch marks](https://aedit.com/aedition/how-to-treat-stretch-marks) in all skin tones, she notes. 

<BeforeAfterModule
  title={Before & Afters: Laser Skin Resurfacing}
  procedureId={995}
/>

### **Laser Treatments to Avoid**
Those with darker skin tones should avoid [traditional resurfacing lasers](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-ablative-laser-skin-resurfacing), like ablative [Fraxel®](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-fraxel-laser-skin-resurfacing-treatments) and [carbon dioxide (CO2)](https://aedit.com/procedure/ablative-co2-laser) devices, because there is a risk of permanent hyperpigmentation, says [Dendy Engelman, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/dendy-engelman-md-312), a board certified dermatologist in NYC. 

Other light therapies that are best to steer clear of? [Intense pulsed light (IPL)](https://aedit.com/procedure/ipl) and broadband light (BBL). “We need to be extremely cautious, as IPL and BBL are really not safe for dark skin tones,” Dr. Frank says. He often sees complications in patients inappropriately treated with IPL devices by inexperienced practitioners. “You need to have laser-specific technology that works well on darker skin tones,” he explains, adding that those typically include the longer wavelength therapies mentioned above.

## **Laser Hair Removal for Darker Skin Tones**
For many years, [laser hair removal](https://aedit.com/procedure/laser-hair-removal) technology wasn't sophisticated enough to work for dark skin. “Traditionally, lasers work by beaming intense light at the follicle, which causes permanent damage so the hair no longer grows there,” Dr. Engelman explains. “The key was the contrast between the follicle and the skin.” That means people with fair skin and a dark hair follicle enjoyed the best results, while people with dark skin and dark hair or light skin and light hair didn’t have many options. 

In the case of patients with darker complexions, Dr. Engleman says the devices weren't able to distinguish between the skin pigment and the pigment of dark hair follicles. As a result, there was a risk of damaging the skin and causing hypopigmentation (light spots), blisters, or even scarring. Fortunately, the technology has come a long way. “I'm excited about the Nd:YAG laser, which safely penetrates deeper into the dermis, totally bypassing the pigment of the skin,” she shares, adding that the Q-switched device is the safest option for laser hair removal for darker skin tones.

The Deka Motus AX is another Q-switched laser that can effectively remove light *and* dark hair from all skin tones. “The one-of-a-kind wavelength used by the Motus AX allows for the treatment of fine and light hair, whereas most lasers are only effective for dark hair,” Dr. Frank explains. “Additionally, it is also effective for darker skin tones, which are not able to be treated with some other lasers.” Another benefit? It’s painless and requires half the number of sessions compared to standard treatments. “This laser is unique because it treats and heats the area very slowly, instead of the classic stamping technique of hair removal,” he says. “It also features a cooling system for increased comfort.”

## **The Takeaway**
While patients with darker skin tones should take special care in finding a provider, laser treatments (of all kinds) carry risks for everyone. “They are just instruments that rely on the performer,” Dr. Frank cautions. Generally speaking, you need to be careful using lasers on people with a history of [eczema](https://aedit.com/aedition/best-skincare-products-to-treat-eczema-flare-ups-in-the-winter) and [psoriasis](https://aedit.com/aedition/what-its-like-to-live-with-and-treat-psoriasis) or any type of skin disease, he says. Taking the time to [research and consult with](https://aedit.com/aedition/finding-the-right-plastic-surgeon-dermatologist-or-cosmetic-dentist) several providers will help ensure you get the best treatment for your needs.

Aesthetics

From laser skin treatments to laser hair removal, tone matters — skin tone, that is. Here’s what you need to know about laser safety and efficacy.

Best Laser Skin Resurfacing And Laser Hair Removal Treatments For Darker Skin Tones

The Best Laser Treatments For Darker Skin Tones

shutterstock 1568859367

Do you know your Fitzpatrick skin type? While you may not be familiar with the term, chances are you’re pretty in tune with the concept of the Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype. The scale classifies a person’s skin tone based on how likely they are to burn. With [Skin Cancer Awareness Month](https://www.skincancer.org/get-involved/skin-cancer-awareness-month/) upon us and summertime just around the corner, it’s time to learn how you measure up and how dermatologists use a patient’s score to help determine everything from skincare regimens to sun-prevention methods. 
 
## **What Is the Fitzpatrick Skin Phototype?**
In 1975, Thomas B. Fitzpatrick, MD, a dermatologist and chairman of the department of dermatology at Harvard Medical School, was experimenting with a treatment for psoriasis that involved exposing test subjects to UVA rays. Dr. Fitzpatrick (a.k.a. the “father of modern academic dermatology”) initially used hair and eye color to determine the recommended amount of UVA exposure to give participants (all of whom were white). But when dark-haired, brown-eyed patients ended up sunburned, Dr. Fitzpatrick realized that he needed to base his treatment on more than just hair or eye color. Instead, he needed to consider how the subjects’ skin responded to the sun.

He began asking patients to describe what happened to their skin after sun exposure when they didn’t have any sun protection. Based on their answers, he created four categories to classify patients’ tendencies to burn (erythema) versus tan (induce pigmentation) — providing an estimation of the amount of melanin present in skin cells. It didn’t take long for the phototype to be widely adopted for clinical use as a useful predictor of skin cancer. A decade later, two more categories were added to encompass a larger spectrum of skin tones.
 
## **How to Determine Your Fitzpatrick Skin Type**
Consulting a [board certified dermatologist](https://aedit.com/aedition/medical-board-certification-in-plastic-surgery-cosmetic-dermatology) is the most effective and accurate way to determine your Fitzpatrick skin type, especially for those with darker skin tones. While a sunburn may show up as redness on pale skin, it may manifest as tenderness on darker skin. Similarly, those with paler skin tend to associate ‘tanning’ with skin darkening, but those with darker skin don’t necessarily think of it the same way.

Whether it is you or a dermatologist attempting to determine your classification, below are the characteristics associated with each Fitzpatrick skin type (and a few celebs that fit the bill):
 
### **Type I**: 
- Light (pale white) skin 
- Light blue or green eyes 
- Red or blonde hair
- Always burns, never tans 
- e.g. Emma Stone and Prince Harry

### **Type II**: 
- White (fair) skin 
- Blue or green eyes 
- Blonde hair
- Burns easily, tans poorly 
- e.g. Gwyneth Paltrow and Justin Timberlake

### **Type III**: 
- Medium (white to olive) skin 
- Hazel or light brown eyes
- Dark blonde or light brown hair
- Burns mildly, tan gradually 
- e.g. Kendall Jenner and Nick Jonas

### **Type IV**: 
- Olive (moderate brown) skin
- Dark brown eyes
- Dark brown hair
- Burns minimally, tans easily 
- e.g. Sofia Vergara and Mario Lopez

### **Type V**: 
- Brown (dark brown) skin
- Dark brown to black eyes
- Dark brown to black hair
- Tans easily, rarely burns 
- e.g. Beyonce and John Legend

### **Type VI**: 
- Black (very dark brown to black) skin
- Brown/black eyes
- Black hair
- Never burns, tans easily 
- e.g. Lupita Nyong’o and Daniel Kaluuya

## **How Dermatologists Use the Fitzpatrick Scale**
“It is very much an inherent part of the dermatologic physical exam,” says [Nikhil Dhingra, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/nikhil-dhingra-md-17376), a board certified dermatologist at Spring Street Dermatology in New York City, of the Fitzpatrick scale. As such, dermatologists use the diagnostic tool in several ways:  

1. **To Assess Skin Cancer Risk**: “Type I skin, for example, is the fairest and at the highest risk for most skin cancers, while a type IV or VI might come in with a rare subtype of melanoma in locations like under the foot,” Dr. Dhingra explains.
2. **To Determine In-Office Procedures**: “Many laser treatments are totally inappropriate and unsafe once you enter the territory of skin types III to VI,” he says. “This dichotomy highlights the imbalance in the technologies available on the market when it comes to treating a diverse patient base.”
3. **To Evaluate Medical Conditions**: “Understanding skin types and what a rash or medical condition can look like when shaded with pigment is another critical use of the Fitzpatrick system for most dermatologists,” Dr. Dhingra shares. As he explains it, a rash that looks one way on a type VI patient could look very different than it would on a type I. 

More than just a collection of color swatches, the Fitzpatrick scale helps to inform proper patient  care. “It’s important to recognize these differences, so your patients get the correct diagnosis and treatment,” Dr. Dhingra says.
 
## **The Relationship Between Fitzpatrick Types and Skincare**
It’s important to see the Fitzpatrick scale as a spectrum that can inform how the skin generally behaves. “The fairest of skin types is going to be high-risk for skin cancers and  prone to sunburns, freckling, and conditions like rosacea,” Dr. Dhingra says. “Type VI skin patients, on the other hand, are going to be more prone to issues of pigmentation, while patients in the middle groups will have varying features of each extreme.” With that in mind, here’s how the phototype can inform your professional and at-home skincare routines: 

### **At-Home Skincare**
[Morgan Rabach, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/morgan-rabach-md-17913), a board certified dermatologist and co-founder of LM Medical in Manhattan, says she considers a patient's skin concern (think: aging or oiliness) and Fitzpatrick score when making product recommendations. “Types I to III often have red tones to their skin and may benefit more from ingredients like sulfur or niacinamide to reduce redness,” she says. “Type III to VI have more chances of hyperpigmentation, so certain [alpha and beta hydroxy acids](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-topical-alpha-hydroxy-acids-in-skincare) and bleaching agents like hydroquinone may be helpful.” 

There are, however, a few active ingredients that almost all her patients can benefit from. She is a fan of antioxidants and sunscreen in the morning and [retinol](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-topical-vitamin-c-in-skincare) and more nourishing moisturizers at night. Dr. Dhingra agrees that antioxidants like [vitamin C](https://aedit.com/aedition/guide-to-topical-vitamin-c-in-skincare) have a universal appeal. “My recommendations include the [Isdin Isdinceuticals Flavo-C Serum](https://www.isdin.com/us/anti-oxidant-serum-isdinceutics_flavo_c.html?cgid=ampules-and-serums) and [La Roche Posay Redermic C Vitamin C Lotion](https://www.laroche-posay.us/face-and-body-skin-care/face-products/face-moisturizer/redermic-c-vitamin-c-lotion-3337872413704.html),” he says.
 
### **In-office Treatments**
Your Fitzpatrick score is critical when considering any professional cosmetic treatment or procedure. “It’s important for patients to seek out a board certified dermatologist for proper treatment, especially if you belong to a Fitzpatrick III to VI category,” Dr. Dhingra says. “You have a higher risk of burning and pigmentary issues, if an inappropriate treatment is done in the wrong hands.”

While it is important to consult with a board certified dermatologist before undergoing any cosmetic procedure, there are few rules that tend to hold true. “Fitzpatrick skin types I to III are the ideal skin types for [laser hair removal](https://aedit.com/procedure/laser-hair-removal),” Dr. Rabach shares. “The higher melanin content in skin types above a III creates a risk of the laser changing the skin color and causing blistering.” Similarly, she recommends skin types IV and above stay away from [microdermabrasion](https://aedit.com/procedure/crystal-microdermabrasion) and [chemical peels](https://aedit.com/procedure/tca-peel). “They are more likely to cause hyperpigmentation,” she says.
 
### **Sun Protection**
People with less melanin (types I, II, and III) are more susceptible to the aging effects of UV rays —  though sun damage affects the entire scale to some extent. Dr. Dhingra recommends all patients use a daily moisturizer with an SPF of 30 to 45 (yes, that’s even meant to be used on days you are working from home or cooped up inside!). He likes the [EltaMD UV Clear Tinted Broad Spectrum SPF 46](https://eltamd.com/product/eltamd-uv-clear-tinted-broad-spectrum-spf-46/) for types III to VI skin, and the non-tinted [EltaMD UV Daily Broad-Spectrum SPF 40](https://eltamd.com/product/uv-daily-broad-spectrum-spf-40/) for types I and II. 

Generally speaking, those on the fairer end of the spectrum need to be extra cautious when venturing out into the sun: “Think UV clothing, hats, and umbrellas,” he suggests, adding that those on the darker end of the spectrum — namely, types IV to VI skin — should be mindful of sunlight exacerbating preexisting pigmentary concerns (i.e. melasma and hyperpigmentation from acne).
 
### **Skin Cancer Risk**
Research has shown that the lower your Fitzpatrick score, the higher your risk of skin cancer. But that doesn’t mean types IV through VI are in the clear. “All skin types can get skin cancer,” Dr. Rabach warns. “Therefore, all skin types should see a board certified dermatologist for skin checks.”
 
## **The Takeaway**
While analyzing your Fitzpatrick skin score online can be useful and fun (think: Am I a Sofia or a Beyoncé?), nothing beats the advice of a board certified dermatologist — particularly if you fall into categories III and above, as more than half the United States population does. 

“Having trained in New York City — and as a type IV skin type myself — I’m particularly comfortable having preselected a list of products and treatments for our skin of color community,” Dr. Dhingra says. “This can mean recommending a certain acne cream that I also find helpful for also combatting the resultant hyperpigmentation. Lighter skin types, conversely, are often betrayed by their fairer skin when it comes to things like rosiness of the cheeks, so I may err for a milder routine as not to flare up the redness.”

Needless to say, there is a lot of nuance to the skin that goes far beyond the Fitzpatrick scale. Before you start surfing celebrity social media accounts in search of your next skincare routine, make an appointment for your yearly skin cancer screening and, while you’re there, ask your dermatologist to determine your Fitzpatrick score.

It’s time to learn where you fall on the scale and understand how dermatologists use a patient’s score to help determine everything from skincare regimens to sun-prevention methods.

A Guide To The Fitzpatrick Skin Type Scale In Dermatology, Sun Cancer, And Skincare

Do You Know Your Fitzpatrick Skin Type?

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Skin treatments are more than just surface level. Results depend on a variety of factors that extend far beyond skin type and one of those factors we don't often think about is the skin's color. During my first laser [hair removal](https://aedit.com/procedure/laser-hair-removal) consultation, I was told I would require additional treatments over a longer period of time due to my darker complexion. I was new to the world of cosmetic procedures and this was the first time I'd heard that my skin color could affect the outcome of my treatment. It turns out that our complexions play a significant role in the outcome of certain procedures, especially lasers. 

## **Why Different Complexions Need Specific Treatments**

The issue with lasers and some other technologies when treating different skin colors, and the reason behind adverse outcomes on darker complexions, is the amount of energy absorbed by the skin. Darker skin types absorb more energy and are thus prone to developing hyperpigmentation, irregular pigmentation, and hypopigmentation. Lighter skin types, on the other hand, don’t absorb energy and respond directly to the treatment.

For a long time the only options were a range of diode and alexandrite lasers, which still carry a risk of pigmentation changes. It’s only within the last 10 years that traceless cosmetic treatments have become available for darker complexions. We now have the choice of lasers and microneedling radiofrequency devices that can be used on darker skin types, with little to no side effects.

But even with the increasing amount of available treatments, people with darker complexions still need to search out doctors who know how to accurately treat darker skin tones. Board certified dermatologist [Jason Emer, MD](https://aedit.com/provider/jason-emer-md-722), acknowledges that some doctors don’t know how to successfully treat darker skin and aren't informed of the side effects certain cosmetic procedures have on dark skin types.

“There are a lot of doctors claiming that [Erbium lasers](https://aedit.com/procedure/ablative-erbium-laser), or what are called ‘cool lasers’, and even [CO2 lasers](https://aedit.com/procedure/ablative-co2-laser), are safe for darker skin types," he says. "These lasers are ablative and burn the skin – they’re very high risk. All ablative lasers, anything that’s delivering a lot of inflammation into the skin, should be avoided.”

Some doctors also use [IPL hair removal](https://aedit.com/procedure/ipl-for-unwanted-hair), which should be avoided when treating darker skin types, since it has a chance of developing both hypo and hyper pigmentation. Another laser that is damaging, and used regularly, is [Fraxel®](https://aedit.com/procedure/fraxel-repair). If used incorrectly, Fraxel can be extremely dangerous and cause rebound hyperpigmentation, burns, and damage to the overall skin texture. 

When it comes to skin rejuvenation, Dr. Emer suggests people with dark skin avoid energy-based treatments and focus on peels, skincare, and at-home dermal rolling. Here are some of his favorites.

### **Chemical Peel**

A signature treatment of Dr. Emer's, Enlighten is a face peel designed to treat darker skin types for pigmentation, dark spots, and pores. It contains retinol, hydroquinone, kojic acid, vitamin C, and licorice root for anti-aging, skin brightening, and lightening. The peel can be done every month or two to brighten the skin tone without risk of damaging skin pigment, unlike other [chemical peels](https://aedit.com/aedition/chemical-peel-vs-laser-treatment-what-is-best-for-your-skin).

### **Microneedling With Radio Frequency**

For those looking into advanced rejuvenation treatments, there are [microneedling with radio frequency](https://aedit.com/procedure/microneedling-with-radiofrequency) treatments available that work from beneath the surface and act as an alternative to energy-based treatments. Most of these devices use plated needles to penetrate the skin and deliver energy under the surface. These [microneedling with radiofrequency](https://aedit.com/procedure/infini-rf) treatments can be used for addressing pigmentation, acne scars, and for treating fine wrinkles in darker skin types. Stronger technologies can also help tighten the skin.

### **Clear + Brilliant®**

[Clear + Brilliant®](https://aedit.com/procedure/clear-brilliant) is used to treat melasma, hyperpigmentation, burns, or to rectify the results of an improper procedure. The procedure uses a very low energy laser treatment that is safe for darker skin types when used over the course of several sittings. Clear + Brilliant® is Dr. Emer’s go-to treatment for melasma and acne, and for those who have sensitive skin or don’t want a lot of downtime.

### **Salt Facial**

A salt facial uses sea salt to apply pressure to the skin to decrease acne, promote exfoliation, and smooth pores and fine lines. It’s a non-energy/non-heat based resurfacing treatment safe for darker skin types. This three-step treatment exfoliates the outer layers of skin, deposits customized serums into the skin, and uses LED therapy to decrease inflammation. It’s an all-in-one treatment that can be done every month to maintain youthful, rejuvenated skin.

### **YAG Laser**

While laser hair removal seems straightforward, a darker complexion can confuse the laser into treating the skin, rather than the hair, because it targets dark pigment. The YAG laser treatment is a good alternative to traditional hair removal lasers, as it flashes so quickly that the upper surface of the skin does not get affected and the laser only works on the hair follicles. The YAG laser is the ideal hair removal option for dark complexions, such as African or South Asian skin tones.

Regardless of the procedure, to achieve the best results you’ll need to combine your treatment with vitamin C and glycolic creams to reduce inflammation in the skin and promote exfoliation, further reducing any risk of pigmentation.

## **The Takeaway**

While there was a time where cosmetic procedures weren’t designed for darker skin types, we’ve thankfully reached a point where cosmetic treatments are accessible to all. So if you’ve ever doubted whether your darker complexion was the right type for a certain procedure, you can feel rest assured that it is now your skin’s time to shine. Just make sure to always consult with your practitioner first.

Skin treatments are not one size fits all. We spoke to Dr. Jason Emer about successful treatments for people with darker complexions and why our skin tone affects the outcome of certain procedures.

The AEDITION

Skin Tone